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Well theirs hasn't blown up with 48v, so there's hope for mine yet :D

Along with my previous controller mod, it certainly has added some pep to the original lacklustre performance. Just hope my new rack doesn't buckle like the first one :eek:

Sweet, thanks d8veh :D

I've got two threaded holes, half a centimeter in diameter, near the rear axle. Are these standard fixings for a rear rack?

Got all the bits and bobs for the project, and spent about an hour fitting it all to the bike. It taught me a lesson or two about any future kit projects I may embark on. The good news is that a 36v battery works very well with the original controller and hub motor set-up. The bad news. Even...

Reserved for Project Beastamatic :D

Glad you like the bike mate. It's a shame that so many of the original negative comments, came about coz we thought that it only had a 24v battery :eek:

Hee hee, you could be right there flecc. However, I do have faith in the old girl, and according to the controller manufacturer's website, it's capable of using 24,36 and 48v. Also, the caps are rated at 63v, so fingers crossed ;)

I'm on the case guys and gals, as I write this. Thanks to a wonderful member of the Pedelecs community, who kindly donated their 36v battery to me in the name of science. Just waiting for a rear rack and a few bits and pieces, so should all be done by the end of next week. It'll be interesting...

I don't understand when you say that one end is much easier to access. Once you gently pull the black capacitor upwards to see the shunt, then both sides are equally easy to solder :confused:

This happens to mine on the odd occasion. Unfortunately I haven't been able to adjust the drive train to stop this from occuring. I carry a small screwdriver with me to put the chain back on, without getting my hands dirty ;)

I filled in the corner, where the screwdriver is pointing, with solder. The corner on the bend of the shunt, not the circuit board! Solder should be melted with existing solder on joint. You are looking to reduce the electrical resistance of the shunt, so the better the job, the more effective...

You can, just go to the advanced menu ;)

Long live the Cyclamatic :D

PM sent, lessped :)

Link??????

I can feel a Kate Winslet and Leonardo DiCaprio moment approaching :eek:

Sorry z0mb13e, I should have explained more clearly, but thanks for the interesting information. I did mean in relation to the spark created when connecting the controller to the battery, which can be strong enough to trash the connectors. In particular, Cell Man's A123, 52v 11.5Ah triangle...

I understand why a battery pre-charge circuit may be needed in some set-ups, but could someone please explain how it works. Do they need any sort of priming, or can you just connect the controller straight to the battery?

cwah, I know that we are all sounding a bit negative, on the bike that clearly meets your check list of what you want out of a bike. I did detect a slight hint of animosity in your last post to Indalo :eek: The only thing that worries me, is the vendor or reseller of Conhismotor products...