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Thanks for your replies :) Slightly off the topic. When a running hub motor is not allowed to turn, as in stalled on a hill, would the current draw from the battery be the maximum rating of the controller, or does it in effect short the battery?

Thanks flecc. It's always good to get your opinion. I suppose the downside is that with the 40A controller, one would be less inclined to pedal assist, therefore negating any benefits.

Yes sorry, the battery would be along the lines of an A123 pack, which should easily provide 40A up until its BMS cut-off. I realise a lot of this is purely theoretical. But in the real world, hill climbing ability coupled with lower battery consumption, is probably at the top of most people's list.

I understand that hub motors like to run at fairly high speed to gain optimum performance and efficiency. In this scenario there are two similar bikes. Both using the same battery and hub motor, but one has a 20A controller and the other 40A. Now if both were to tackle the same steep hill on...

Link here: 36V 350W brushless controller for E - bike & scooter | eBay You have to ask for sensorless, same price. Not sure whether he can do sensorless with pedal sensor, but I took mine off. It's now working on 36v :) The main controller is totally waterproof, but gonna seal up the...

Received my new sensorless controller today, from e-crazyman. Took 11 days from order to door, so not bad considering it came from China. Removed old controller and battery docking plate from bike, which gave me some space to hide the wiring loom. Pretty straight forward swap, apart...

It's all good news, as I'm paving the way for other Cyclamatic modders :D The controller is from E-crazyman off eBay, and it should be a fairly easy exchange. Will post the results when the controller tips up.

The plus button on the handlebar is used with the lever to change up and down gears. Push the lever to change down gears. Press the button to change up gears. If the tension on the gear linkage is wrong, the gears don't work properly and it will appear that the button doesn't do anything. Find...

You can get inside the battery contacts with a cotton bud dipped in your favourite tipple, if white vinegar's your thing :D Dry it with the other end of the bud. Doing what d8veh mentioned with bending the contacts inwards for a tight fit is also a good idea. If these things don't cure the...

Rosie, how does the battery supply the power to the bike? Does it slide into a docking station, like the Cyclamatic, or do you have to plug in a kettle type lead once the battery is in place? If it is the former, then clean the battery and bikes power contacts with some rubbing alcohol, white...

Nope, I haven't been flame grilled :eek: I fitted the battery and it took the voltage ok. Performance was greatly improved. Unfortunately, I think I blew one or more hall sensors on a test run. Therefore, I've ordered a 36v sensorless controller, and hope to get the beast back on the road...

One Crazybloke 36v sensorless controller on the way. The beast may rise again :D

Hee hee, I like that last line :D I disconnected the pedelec sensor yonks ago, just used the throttle and pedal combo. Found the pedelec operation would hang on for about one second after stopping pedaling. This felt dangerous on very low speed sharp turns. E-crazyman has got 100% feedback...

Think I might get one from this seller too. Seems to have a much better reputation than BMSBATTERY.

Sweet, the original Beast may return. Watch this space ;)

Nothing ventured, nothing gained as they say :D Be a shame not to get the bike going again, if all it needs is a 25 quid controller. Wasn't planning on trying to squeeze it in the compartment anyway. The original was a tight squeeze. So on a sensorless controller, the only wires connected to...

Right, I've checked continuity between the following wires: Blue/Green Blue/Yellow Yellow/Green All combinations showed fine :D This means that the root cause of the breakdown and the controller overheating, was probably some sort of hall sensor melt down. Without taking the hub motor...

Is there a way I can test the motor windings with a multimeter? If the motor is ok, then sensorless sounds like a good way to go. Would this literally be a straight swap, but without the hall sensor connections?

Spotted this on eBay: Carbon Fibre Electric Bike | eBay

Nice to see you carrying out these mods so quickly. Just to give you a heads up about Beastamatic Mk1. Originally, I thought that the reason why the bike wasn't powering up properly, was due to the LM317 regulator not working. I tested it with the 24v battery, to eliminate any concerns that...