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Welcome to the world of the Cyclamatic's niggly little problems :D I managed to pick up on the spoke problem pretty quickly. The battery mod came a bit later when it cut out, and I opened up the casing to see what was wrong. Surprising how much space is above the battery pack, and why on...

I had forgotten that a multimeter can be used to measure resistance, so I measured both the regulator adjustment resistor values. Now I've been trying to learn all about the LM317T and I think I have got it. Depending on the values of the two resistors in the circuit, means an output voltage...

Hee hee, I get you two mixed up, coz yer both kings of the mods ;)

Oooops, it's d8veh I should have PM'd. He's just opened up his controller. Sorry NRG :o

After opening up the controller case, I am almost 100% certain that the problem is a fried controller. The following pictures show a resistor next to the 3-Terminal Adjustable Regulator (LM317T), which has clearly overheated. The resistor is fairly charred in the middle, but I can just make...

I'm building the Unicyclamatic this weekend ;)

Exactly, couldn't have put it better myself ;)

Yep, Tim Westwood's getting drafted in to host the thread ;)

I'll send him a PM and see if he's willing to do that ;)

I reckon that if you are willing to pedal along with the motor, and maybe drill some air vents in the front and rear of the controller housing, then the beast would live longer. The flow of air through the housing should keep things cooler. NRG's potential mods should prove interesting :D

Looks like they changed the specs slightly on the controller. Mines rated at 7A, maximum 14A. No wonder they've got no b*lls stock :eek:

Thanks for the offer NRG, but I'm going to concentrate on my next project. I'm glad that I tinkered with the Cyclamatic beforehand. Now I know exactly what I want from my next bike :D

The problem was a bit weird :confused: After I got the bike home, checked the fuse and charged the battery, it did fire back into life again. Lights on throttle lit too. Half way round the block, it died again. This time, the lights show on the throttle, but doesn't work on throttle or pedal...

It's official... the Beastamatic is dead :( Got the battery all nicely fitted to the new rack, and took it out for a torture test. It was throttle all the way, with light pedaling up steep hills to help the motor. Six miles later, the throttle battery indicator lights went out. No...

The only concern I have, is that the controller may get too hot on long uphill, throttle only runs. This is because it is mounted inside a container on the bottom bracket, and heat dispersal may be an issue. I'll be the guinea pig and do some long uphill runs with the throttle only. Not too...

Couldn't wait for my new rack to arrive, so I carried out the following temporary mod, to get out on the bike again. The end of the battery rests on the top bar, so no chance of it bending this time. This also made me realize how much more balanced a bike is, when the battery is located...

It does feel quicker off the mark. I reckon it's down to better efficiency. Allowing the motor to get the power it wants, instead of choking it. It just feels so much spritelier than the stock set-up. Haven't fully tested it yet, as I am just waiting for the new rear rack to tip up. I...

LSDZS website says the micro controller (basically same one in Beastamatic) will run 24,36 and 48v. On the couple of miles that I've tested so far on throttle only, the motor only got mildly warm to the touch. Remember mines running 36v, not 48v. That bloke on Youtube seems to go for flaming...

And Quidco ;)

Sports HQ discount Just thought I would jump on the bandwagon :D