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Funny, I just melted my dc-dc converter, which is basically the same as the one in the picture. Not a lot of load, but I suspect 38v is a bit much for the 35v caps.

As for joining wires, crimping is probably the best/easiest/quickest method. Make sure you a use a decent ratchet crimper though.

Building your own is a very real possibility, and not as hard as you might think. Change out the front wheel, add a throttle/pedal sensor, or both, chuck a battery and controller in a bag, strap it onto a rear rack and connect it all together (usually plug n play). You may also want/need to...

Interesting Geebee, thanks for the correction. When I saw the heat sink on it I was thinking of the older type dc-dc converters.

A Cree t6 is designed to work at roughly 3v, 1A. (approximate figures). That makes each LED 3w. 3 LEDs in series at 9v, =9w, = 1A. With reasonably good buck converter onboard (a guess, as 12-30v input) then at 24 volts, I would expect about 0.4 A each. However, as always with this stuff you...

Edited as not very helpful.

Just be aware that these voltage converters are normally very inefficient. Often they will waste off as much in heat as they convert, perhaps more. At low current, not a problem, but at 1.5A you could find the lights consuming 3-4Ah/h.

Perhaps he's using Google's Chrome browser, which I think does this by default, and is (IMHO) a much better browser.

If it is 'notchy stiff' then there is a good chance of a short in the phase wires that link the battery to the controller.

d8veh, sorry, I meant to say Bafang (being deliberately vague on power level). I would suggest a setup similar yours, but with front drive to make the installation easier. But I get the feeling now that the OP is set on buying 'off the peg'.

Alternatively, give me the 1k, and I'll build it for ya. (Unless d8veh want to do it.)

Building your own has many advantages, as you can spec it to do exactly what you need, and possibly convert a bike you already own. You don't need to be all that spanner capable, especially if you go for front drive hub motor. I reckon an 8fun front hub kit with a 20ah lithium battery would...

The VSR's on eBay are rated at 140 amps.

Depends on controller, but on mine there was a grey wire that came out and back in again. There was a single connector, so I broke the loop. On 250 watt it won't make much difference though. (prob 2-3 mph)

Just had look on eBay, about £35 quid delivered. Basically, connect two wires from VSR to existing batt, take thick cable from VSR to leisure batt, connect leisure batt negative to chassis.

Alternatively, a VSR (voltage sensitive relay), which is slightly more simple to wire, as you don't need to find the 'charging light' connection. The other advantage is that your main battery gets charged first, as the VSR kicks in at (something like) 14v. Probably a little more expensive though.

Last time I bought SLA's I noticed that VAT is not due on batteries for mobility scooters, but is due on batts for electric bikes. Same batts, different uses. I managed to get some 14ah ones, specifically designed for EV's, and more tolerant to deep discharge. They have been pretty good so far.

It was really my own take on it, not meant as a direct quote. I do however agree with your point, and stand corrected.

I have been lurking for a couple of years, and have never had much to contribute. The information I have received however has been invaluable. It's important to recognise that these posts turn up in google searches. That's where I have read most of them. With the current debate about technical...

Hi all, Anyone had any experience with this kit - Can't really see a manufacturer name for it. On the face of it looks like good value. Have asked for more info, and seller says it a brushless/gearless hub motor. Seller is called Mekaniko-Direct-Seller, maybe that's a clue? Electric...