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Should be ok, you have enough fuses. What current are you getting?

pull the crimp off from the fuse box. switch circuit on. connect black test lead to crimp, and red to terminal on fuse box.

You measure voltage in paralell, current in series: Ohm's Law Series-Parallel Circuits Calculation | Electrical Engineering | Learn Electrical Engineering for Beginners

See above....

I'll assume its 200mA on right hand socket. So you have the leads in the right place. Turn the dial to about 5 O-clock, where it says 10A, break circuit somewhere, connect red lead to broken circuit closet to battery +ve, and black lead closest to battery -ve.

Unfortunately, the black lead is covering up the important information, which is the current range on the un-connected socket!

1) Depending on current, you will probably get away without any additional fuses. It might be wise to have one on the output side of the DC-DC converter to protect it, however not necessary from a safety point of view, and might cost more than the converter. 2) Either is good. I would bridge...

Measuring current with a multimeter: 1. Important to note that the positive lead may need to moved to a different socket on the meter. Check manual, and be very sure to put it back in the voltage sockets at the end. If you measure 220 ac with meter configured for current you can destroy it...

Inside the lamp units I expect it has a buck converter. It could also be a linear regulator though. The way to tell the difference (and confirm the wattage) would be to test the current at different voltages. If the current drops (about half) when you double the voltage, then its a buck...

In current order, the ratings should be: Device (eg 0.5A) Fuse (eg 1A) Cable (eg 1.4A)

7/02 = 7 strands of 0.2 mm diameter. 16/02 = 16 strands, 0.2 mm. Important that all of the cable in the circuit is capable of more current than the fuse. If not, in a failure the cable will act as a fuse. Not pretty.

Just make sure that the cable from the fuse box to the light is capable of higher current than the fuse. Looks a bit small to me for a 4A fuse, but that might just be the picture. As a guide, 7/02 is normally rated about 1.4A, with 16/02 at around 3A.

9" Crimping Tool Ratchet Type, Plus 100 Mixed Crimping Terminals | eBay Cant comment on quality, but it looks alright from the picture. Comes with a few female spades (blue) so I would also order some reds. A good article on crimping...

Very easy to make with a bit of cable, a soldering iron, and some heat shrink sleeve. 5 minutes work. Ok, I think I'm starting to understand why you hate them. To be very clear - You DO NOT need to remove the plastic outer with and awl. you insert the cable through the plastic, into the...

You need to find a small fuse box with a single 'busbar' feed. Had a quick look on Ebay, and there are some that will do the job, however they all have fuse blown indicator LED's, and are rated up to 32v (presumably for the LED). I would be inclined to remove the LED, then feed with a single...

Why not buy a small, automotive fuse box, feed it with one (suitably sized) cable and take each circuit from there?

Another option, if all you need is a bag, are these, from screwfix: Forge Steel Hard Bottom Tool Bag 12" | Screwfix.com Will fit 3 x 12/14ah SLA's just perfectly.

Hi all, Just thought I would share how I built some cheap lights for my bike recently. I noticed that a Flo-plast 40mm pipe coupling (yes 40mm) is the perfect size to contain a GU10/MR16 spotlioght. These are made from polypropylene, tough, light and cheap. £1.50 each in B&Q. If you...

Plenty of powabykes on eBay at the moment. Unless explicitly stated as new, I would assume the batteries are past their best, and allow £100 for new ones. I think they use 3x12v/12ah.

To prove battery and cable: 1. Stick meter on Volts DC range (if not auto ranging, then a range that is above 45v). 2. Find the battery connector - as close to the controller as you can get. Disconnect. 3. Insert meter probes into connector that goes to battery. 4. If you get 38v or above...