Search results

Yes, but I'm suggesting that Alex would be better to fix the unconventional connector, rather than change his setup to match it. This may be a PITA but its likely to save a lot of trouble down the line. Currently, Alex appears to have a bike where Brown is 0v, and blue is +36v. Red to Red...

Just to further you understanding a bit Alex: Strictly speaking, DC should be designated as Black/Red (or sometimes White/Something bright) for 0v/+ve respectively. Often though, it is more practical to use AC designated cable (Blue/Brown). When doing so, I would get into the habit of using...

Pleased to meet you. Clearly a man of wealth and taste.

I only use internet explorer for one thing and for that its superb: downloading chrome.

Same here. Throttle and 14kg weight loss. Still a FUB though.

Dont know about the kettle lead, but you could get 8ah 36 Li-ion battery delivered from BMS Battery for £150 (plus a bit for VAT/handling at customs) That would probably double the original range. Alternatively, stick with SLA's for about £75 (but they are much heavier, and will not last...

You may find that the battery's are connected with spade terminals, which you can simply push on/pull off. Edit - Sorry Flecc, typing while you were posting.

..or just convert the Claud Butler. That's what I did, albeit with front hub motor.

Ah, I see. I'd assumed it was a battery problem.

If all you are doing is connecting the output of the dc converter into where the battery(s) were connected, then you have no need to worry about current limiting - presumably its managed internally. All you need to do is match the dc converter output to the original battery voltage. It's...

Yes, you could get away with a t joint as long as you can insulate it suitably. Can't comment on silweld, never used it. There is no real need to take multiple drop wires, assuming the one you tale off is enough to supply all your equipment. Be aware the current you are talking about here is...

Personally, I would use chocolate block as a last resort. Soldering would be better, crimping better still. As I know you don't have a crimper, then I suggest this: Cut the 12 AWG between batt and controller, and slip some heat shrink tubing over. Solder 12 AWG's back together, with a smaller...

No, In my case <1A at 5v (5w), so I hope it will just about cope. Interesting results though. Your 25 Watt unit is about 85% efficient, and the LM2596 is about 80%. (edited, I had the figures the wrong way around)

To make things a bit easier: As far as I can make out, a Cree t6 runs at about 3v, 1A. So if you had two in parallel, you would draw 2A at 3v (6w). Assuming some losses in the DC-DC converter, I would guess you would be drawing 0.2A at the battery. Even with 50% efficiency, it would still only...

I agree that's the impression, but correctly sized, installed and protected they are more reliable than you would think. Often though, I agree that they are installed poorly and will fail.

Crimp connectors don't suffer so badly from long term vibration fatigue problems. Soldered connection on a board aren't too bad, but where there is no strain relief for the cable (eg inline connections), you can get problems. That said, I expect well soldered joints correctly protected would be...

Yup, assuming 36v battery, just a switch.

Sorry, missed last few posts. £25 from maplin sounds about right for a reasonable crimper. A tool worth having though if you are going to tinker with electricals on vehicles. I just ordered a new dc-dc converter today: LM2596 DC-DC Step Down Adjustable Power Supply Module Buck | eBay...

How about keeping the Deans connector, cutting the 12awg cable and crimping an inline into it, with a smaller wire in addition to supply the voltage converters. The small wire probably only needs to supply 1A, to both voltage converters (you would need to work out how much current to be sure)...

Might give that a go. Great vid BTW.