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Topbikekit rate the akm128 as a 500w and 800w also.

Fit the disc direct to the small chain ring and then throw the sensor over so it picks up ok, once the disc is fixed to the chainrings it can't slip.

Nearly all similar sold bikes use an OEM source for the electronics to which often the only chance is the vendor to try and get some spares , often most don't supply or can help with spares. In the long run for conveniance it is best to simply bite the bullet and upgrade using KT components...

My last small tyres were the 20" for the CF trailer , Tiger brand still working and no flats thanks to the Tannus inserts.

DC 200v range on the multimeter as the voltage range below is <20v, A/C/W turn of the dial for DC range.

My 48v tsdz was set to 12a , with the OSF I have upped it to 14a. Though I don't use 48v but 12s 44v. Withthe OSF parameters one can change the settings to suit the battery used, so wh can be input and series used. Also one can input the 6x voltage readings at which the battery bar segments...

Although Mrs.BM2 doesn't like gears she will need some so rear hubs gears are an option with a twist shift. I have mostly owned/used a rear or front hub ona bike and couldn't ride without gears. As to bike weights generally 20-25kg is a generic ebike weight so one has to accept it .

Dust seals come out easy with no damage, the RHS will be excess to requirements so keep as a spare. Use pointy tweezers or a needle to tease the LHS side out if need be.

I would opt for a bz 10c pas if you have a hollowtech type BB, never yet had a slip or issue with the two parts pas set up bar the 12 pole not playing ball. Ever since a 10 pole has been my go to option. Simply set C1 /1 and it will work.

Show us a pic of the PAS sensor , I had a 12 pole PAS that gave me issues years ago so opted for a 10 pole set up and never had an issue again.

I also don't see how trying to tighten it up on the frame with the battery in situ could be done as the battery would prevent acces to the battery mount fixings. The only fire likely to occur if it is shorted or the electrolite has leaked is if one tried charging it, to be sfae simply remove it...

The tsdz out of the box is a bit like the bbs, the programming is a bit tame. With the bbs one downloads the programme and orders a prog cable to change settings. The tsdz isn't much different but the OSF programming is a bit more involved . One has the option of increasing the % levels on the...

King meter are usually only OEM supplied as with your bike, it will be programmed as a pair with the main controller so not just a simple buy and fit option. A bike shop or ebike shop won't touch it with the proverbial barge pole not because it is not an ebike they sell but simply because...

Your never get the Mah rating unless only drawing 0.2a per cell.

They have 12 x 10 the same as any other hub. Not seen the AKM128 HCST before pretty power full beasty cassette motor and still geared. 36v/201rpm at 48v will be approx . 260 - 268rpm. I haven't under volted a 48v hub but assume a 260rpm would be a mountain goat at 36v .

He wasn'y very good leaving those wire ends un- insulated . 44.2v is far from empty probably approx. 10 - 15%remaining. The Brown appears to go into the black cable outer sheath , if os where does that cable goe to ? The thick Yellow looks a little out of place ? The Red/Black together looks...

One can inprove the crank latteral play by installing an extra sealed bearing on each side. On the LHS pluck out the rubber seal and there is enough room for another bearing for support and refit the seal. On the RHS remove the spider seal and fit a sealed bearing in place of it (may need a it...

The To7 and TSDZ are different motors and use different software/firmware.

Did your old throttle have a voltage display or a lock ?

Often it's not the fact the battery is or could be a fire bomb, it is simply the fact that people don't know the do's and dont's when it comes to charging. There needs to be a public campaign to stop ejits who think it's just like charging a phone or laptop.