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Wiring for crank drive kits like the BBS01 is pretty simple but not for hub kits. The most logical place to install the controller is to attach it to the head tube or hide it within the front light and yet, nobody seems to offer this sort of products.

The video does not show how the torque arm is secured to the fork. So you have a conventional bottom bracket pedelec sensor and a wireless LCD. To me, the simplification on the wiring consists of eliminating a cable to run from the front wheel motor to the LCD on the handlebars, which is not...

I watched the Omniwheel video. It uses torque washers so presumably the motor is not high power.

the convenience element is well understood. Do you have to fit the pedelec sensor and the LCD though?

I am usually skeptical about having too much computer parts in a transport. First, would it pass EN15194 EMF test with all the wireless gizmos? secondly, what happens if the battery on the LCD dies? Apology for my ignorance, should have paid much more attention to the video. On the pricing...

Not many e-bikes can face a tough job like commuting 20-25 miles a day, 5,000 miles a year. Shops sell mainly pretty bikes, with the accent on saving weight rather than sturdy machines with simple layout and fitted for all weather riding. You'll need to take into account battery, hill climbing...

he's got 14 days to send it back if he's not entirely happy with it. Far less risky than buying from a shop.

the maximum power you get is proportional to the square of the battery voltage. When the battery is half drained, its voltage sags for about 8%-10%, the maximum power you get at the wheels drops about 15%. The drop accelerates with further battery drain. When your battery has only 20% remaining...

usually, when you have red and black, red goes to 5V and black goes to ground. The third wire is the signal. So red to red, black to back and blue to white. If you have a volt meter, it's prudent to check that you see 5V between black and red on the controller side.

Besides being ridiculously expensive, they don't have pedelec sensors. are these all in one wheels road legal?

if you are going to buy an XD motor, go for the Lishui controller and Bigstone LCD. They are better made than the KT parts.

yes, I know that. I rode an XD kit in Southend last year. I also knew that woosh abandoned the XD project in favour of more BPM bikes.

I got it now. It's less complicated than I imagined. I could not work out that the ring with the 3 holes was fastened to the hub from the pictures. Thank you for the clear explanation. The system basically disengages both clutches when the motor is off with the 6 springs. if one of them comes...

If you want to haul weight, that RXS has maximum torque at 40NM, the BPM 60-65NM.

the xiongda gearbox is this unit: I spent hours trying to work out its workings from your pictures - just beyond me. Cost-wise, it costs about the same as a BPM, controller and LCD cost also about the same, so no advantage on cost. Whenever you can use raw power, anything above 8mph really...

I have a small 8-Fun BBS01 crank drive motor. It's great but does not suit everyone. For hub drive, the BPM 350W (restricted to 250W) is the yardstick for most e-bikes sold by trade members Kudos, Oxygen and Woosh.

I honestly cannot see why you should prefer a xiongda XD to the BPM. I know the xiongda is a bit lighter, consumes a bit less power for the same trip than the BPM but there are also other factors against it. Firstly, it has a complicated gearbox arrangement, that means that when you start...

the Big Bear LS has large BPM motor and 15AH battery, good hill climbing ability and good range: http://wooshbikes.co.uk/?bigbear-ls

watt meter: d8veh has the speedict Mercury (EUR 95) http://www.speedict.com/index.jsp

you are right, if there is a short within the motor housing then the motor will have to go back. Somehow I was hoping that the short just inside the LCD.