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For the tsdz I used thermal silicone to stick the heat sensor to the inner motor.

The battery was a spare one kept in a wp pannier along with the coke. I think the BMS likely failed , how I don't know but he mangaed to post it back to bosh who simply binned it.

Apply a 24v charger (a temporary adapter will be needed) to the motor input wiring to check it works , then one may be able to fit a 24v lion silver fish type battery to the bike if the space is adequate. The silverfish often are supplied with a fitting kit inc the bottom plate.

In rush caps need a bit of over head voltage, ideally they would be 50/60v also with using 36v on a 24/26v system the lvc & hvc will be incompatible with the voltage so one will cause controller damage. Being a mid drive they are not two trick ponies when it comes to voltage so stick with...

Set C1 parameter to value 07.

The actual model is the Flyer C model 2003 - 2018. The updated modern version is called the Gotour4 and is 4k euros.

Bosch use generic quality brand cells from many manufactures, my brothers original gen 1 one that went tits up after swimming in coke had Samsung 22p 10a cells. That was fitted to a kalkhoff S pedelec.

The battery may well be exactly the same fitting wise , one won't know until it arrives to see.

Silverfish batteries often are supplied with a new fitting kit which comprises of slide/rail & bottom discharge plate. Pretty simple to swap over but may entail minor soldering.

Battery discharge voltage reading ? If 0v then battery fuse blown.

Brrrrr..........

KT LCD's are generally quite easy to set up, if the component types are known. What you need to do is write/note down all of the P & C settings to keep them safe , then one can refer to them should a later issue occur.

That rear brake cable needs replacing looking at the state of it , also buy a small pack of brake cable ends to prevent the wire delaminating.

For PAS the C1 one setting will be one of three values depending on which works the best , so C1 7 is the most likely one but one can try values 5 & 6 as well. For P1 set the value to 84 and give it a whirl other wise one can change the value anywhere up to 100 to get an accurate speed...

When my 6fet kt controller becames too hot to handle and I needed to stick a heat sink to it, I simly bought some cheapish White thermal paste off ebay. Stuck like s**t to a blanket and worked very well.

Control kit wise then YES, a KT system is by far the best affordable kit to use . Controllers are dual voltage so opt for 36/48v at 17 or 20a rating, best LCD to use is the LCD3 though it is a bit large. There are a dozen KT lcd's to pick from so down to preference

AKM 95 is an unusual motor not often seen , it certainly afaik only an OEM supplied model. It is rated at the rpm for 36v , what that rpm is we can only guess. Being a front hub motor about 201 - 260rpm for 27/32kmh ,it is 250w rated. 42 N.m max rating and approx.2.8kg.

As you have changed the LCD , I assume all of the electronics are KT brand. For PAS to work one has to input the correct value for parameter C1, we need to know which PAS type is used. As for P1 tell us which hub motor is used. P1 dictates the true speed the display records so the speed reading...

One doesn't need to mess with many parameters , only a few programmable parameters are the necessary ones. Balance range adjustment 3.3v - 4.2v . Over voltage 3.6v - 4.3v. LVC 2v - 3.3v. Over current & temperature. With a large battery capacity if one has the needs to carry a so much weight...