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The Smart BMS in #65 uses B/T as an option to plug in so one doesn't have to use it , the uart to pc option is likely one good route but the optional add on may be pretty good. It utilises a seperate plug in uart lcd screen which one can make the adjustments with and to check cell levels.

An example of a programmable BMS, this one comes with uart or BT connection. One can monitor & set balance voltage and a few voltage parameters to one's liking. 12S 30A/40A/60A 50.4v BMS New Lithium Ion Smart PCM With Android Bluetooth compatible UART APP Software Monitor|bms pcm|pcm...

P1 is simple if the correct motor is known and its reduction is known. As it is geared 100 is close but 84 may be even closer, the best way is to ride with a gps andadjust P1 so the lcd speed and gps pretty well match if lcd is set for 25kmh for the adjustment.

There is sign not far from me that says 17% for the incline , though it is not avery long incline.

If the lcd is over reading speed then reduce P1 setting value to see if it changes. P1 46 is pretty std setting for a D/D hub but doesn't mean 46 is the correct value.

It may well do but the bike should be SVA'd as the Wipser models with throttle are to be legal , so many riding mopeds with throttles .

Does the battery cut out at all on the hill climb ?

Throttle isn't needed for the tsdz I find, towing a heavy trailer (90kg or so) I have not felt the need for one.

That's good going with those figures, one can't complain for that money.

Either of the cotton wool or grapite uses could work well for lcd displays where the handle bar mount clip has broken. I have a refractometer with a broken plastic clip, will have to try the repair method.

Nice ideas using the SG & graphite for plastic repairs and even more impressed with cotton wool repairs.

I have gone small with my TSDZ as it suits my needs for up to 30 miles. I went with 12s2p for 8400mah using molicel 25a 4200mah 21700 cells.

Obviously something still very wrong , this is the second could be third major out for the forum since the move over.

I ditched my lcd4 because it was erratic, odo not correctly displaying speed and at times when freewheeling no speed readout. All originally worked ok with lcd3 so eventually gave up and tried the LCD3 I use to use and all was ok again. I can only assume either a bad batch of lcd4's produced...

The issue with what cells is down to the supplier and the cells they use and the cheapest decent ones they can use. Typically any thing with a quality cell like the moli will be a bespoke made battery where one can choose or buy the cells themselves..

21700 at the mo as v. good 18650 's are hard to get. Molicell p42a for great current also not bad at 4200mah . For 18650 the p28a is the top cell in the 2700/3000mah range. End of the day depends on what you need out of the battery current or mah , remember you can't have both at the same time.

I don't know of any suitable guides probably some on utube, generally I prefer the say so experince of a forum like this or Endless sphere for good advice from folks who have carried out this sort of thing many times, mainly from experince of battery building and diagnosis.

Hard to say but water and e bikes don't mix very well at all, I clean my bke with a wet oil rag and some spray degreaser. Likely the water has affected the 5v line so one needs to carry out controller tests to check for mosfet shorting and correct motor hall voltage. Troubleshooting - Learn...

170 yes, I over looked the fat bike bit. The other numbers are likely manufacture date and serial number so could be 2021 May .