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For fusing two wires together (with the bypass method) having pre tinned them with ample solder use a croc clip to hold them tight on a flat work surface (I use and old large wooden chopping board) and then apply heat/solder either side of the clip, turn the wires over and ensure the solder has...

It's only worth replacing if the end user has a spot welder to carry out a proper job. Also as we know cell age is an issue vs introducing new cells.

A BMS like that would suffice. Firstly though one needs to know the controllers current rating and then buy a BMS with a slightly higher current rating.

Wheel dish is a term used to centralise the rim between the bikes drop outs. As above it is about spoke tightning and adjustment .

It has always been said on this forum a hub bike is far superior in reliability for any riding bar sport mtb riding, they are in the whole pretty bullet proof. It is brands , brand sellers and a verciferous few with very deep pockets who poo poo hub bikes. It's like buying a ferrari or...

It's not so much about the rubbish BMS not balancing the cells, it 's more to do with the BMS draining a cell group after a long while of non use. Sometimes there is a residual bit of very low power or a resistor that can bleed a cell down to low. One reason why it is advised to put a bttery...

At 33.4v it rather suggests a cell group is below the lvc for a single cell so the reason why no charging will occur, the BMS not switching on. The low cell group needs manually raing to the same threshold as the others , then the BMS will allow charging. If you are competent then one can simply...

No idea of manufacturer/brand. As it's 48v I doubt it will need much more then 17a controller so don't get all worked up about wattage. Simply buy a controller and lcd as a matching pair and opt for a 48v controller of 15a - 20a, 15a at 48v is 720w . The motor is small so could be 250, 350 or...

Cells are likely un balanced and the BMS has probably not done it's job very well. The charger light will be green even at a low battery charge level because the BMS won't allow the charger to charge so no Red charge light. The battery needs opening to determine the fault using a volt meter...

I wouldn't worry about cycle life with most generic stuff as the cell used are medocre to good but not the very best top notch cells, so just use it and enjoy the E feel. Not many will get 500+ cycles from a small ebike battery. One would have to ride 25,000 miles minimum to get 500 full cycles...

What neck of the woods are you in RichB ?

Some where along the line there are voltage anomilies, the 13 cells give about 53v and some where there was an other 3v ? I one removes the 4 cells from # 14 then the battery will become a 13s /48v pack, parallel wise one will still have 20ah as per the original spec of 21700 /5000mah cells...

It will be dead easy to repurpose as 13, 12 or 10 s battery with an appropriate BMS.

At the end of the day any generic charger is just that, a power supply whether 24, 36 or 48v etc,etc. One needs to understand that which the 5v charger is being purposed for. It isn't to charge a complete battery pack, at only 5v it is for single cell or cell group charging, it's a simle...

Some one must have given the server a good spanking as even pics are loading up quite well tonight and all threads are loading as well. When Matt was doing his trailer tour write ups , I had a devil of a time seeing his pics as they simply were taking a millenium to load . I may have to revist...

If one wants to then yes the three seperate packs can be paralled but in there existing state by use of parallel discharge 1T3 wire cable, though it will be best to include a diode on each battery dicharge to prevent reverse current flowing . One can then still have a 18p battery for one large...

For sure if only the two outer pins are used then any generic battery will be ok.

I wasn't able to upload any thread using my w10 lap top with edge, also wouldn't load using firefox. Like wise I gave up, still having some issues this morning here. Very slow and threads seem to be held up in a black hole.

Alot of generic BMS are named as smart BMS becuase they have balance features and lvc features etc,etc, the use of the word 'smart' can be and is misleading at times. A true smart BMS allows the user to alter parameters via uart or BT.

The sf 03 is listed for other bikes in the their range so could be the same battery.