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the stem is held inside the steerer tube with an expander wedge. The bolt that tightens the wedge is accessed from the top. 1. lift up the lever to reveal the hole 2. use a 6mm allen key to tighten the wedge 3. Use a pair of pliers to help you tighten it really well. 4. Adjust the arm read and...

no. The battery has LVC protection, when it runs out of juice, it shuts itself down. When they are made, they are loaded with 50% charge. You can do about 20 miles before running out of juice.

what is it about? I am all for building your own bike. You get the best of the technology to suit your needs, you know your bike inside out and it's cheaper than buying ready made. The only difference between my view and other members' like d8veh is the motor technology. I think crank drives...

I check the tyre pressure, brakes, gears, pedals every time I ride. If anything feels loose or rattles while I ride, I'll fix it as soon as I get back. oil the chain, pedals and ball bearings - every 200-300 miles. ping the spokes may be twice a month. On a new bike, after a few rides, time to...

derf is buying a BPM2 kit from bmsbattery.com - his future problem is warranty and support rather than spin because there isn't any.

what is your problem with woosh? I thought you sorted out the pedelec sensor?

the Bosch Classic motor in the Tasman has 44T on the front cog, 20T on the Alfine-8 on the rear cog, the maximum torque transmitted to the rear cog is 50NM * 20/44 = 22.7NM, within the recommendations.

there was a lot of hope back in the 60s and 70s when I was at uni that bio-membrane chemistry would solve the battery problem. Progress stopped for a while then I saw a post last week about sucrose cells. I still think bio cells are the way to go.

that's very neat in comparison to the messy version in the round bottle battery. Somebody ought to test this controller and report.

d8veh, you forgot to post the link to the photos of the controller.

http://www.bmsbattery.com/battery-pack/680-bottle-ebike-battery.html I've been told by another supplier that the square bottle battery can only have 6 FET controller. 20A controllers usually have 9 FETs, too big to be housed inside the case base.

on standard Li ion, the manufacturers guarantee you can use 100% of the specified capacity, typically 30 miles for 10AH. You can ride your bike until LVC, about 3.1V per cell. According to d8veh post above, if you stick to 4.1V - 3.6V, you get 65% of nominal capacity. That would be around...

your post makes me think: lipo packs are attractive because they are cheaper than Li-ion. But if you can't use them at below 3.6V for fear of damaging them then the usable capacity needs to be topped and tailed between 4.1V to 3.6V, making a 15AH pack be like 10AH e-bike battery. Not an...

there are just too many problems to solve before Lithium sulfur can take off. The biggest problem is relatively low discharge rate, between 0.1C to 0.5C making them unsuitable for e-bikes, we need 2C discharge rate. Taking into account the 10% density gain in processing for current e-bike...

pink e-Bromptons would expand the number of women cyclists in cities like London.

do they use ParcelForce of China? it's been a week now that's you've been waiting.

have you got your bike yet?

shower cap?

at that level, the power is limited by the battery. Unless you build your own battery, where are you going to find a ready made battery with 30A continuous rating? you need warranty when you build a kit!

jack, you would be better off ordering the Big Bear kit from Woosh for £499. http://wooshbikes.co.uk/?hubkits Not only it's in stock and possibly cheaper than direct import, you get warranty on a well proven 15AH battery too.