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A 201rpm hub in a 20" rim would give 11 - 12mph or guess one can simply apply with some lcds a speed adjustment. A code 16 bafang in a 26/700c rim would likely be the best option but one expects they are quite rare to find. Code 13 being 201rpm a 16 is 160rpm. In the real world if all coded...

P1 & C1 are the two to affect motor & PAS. C3 relates to the display PAS setting, 0 - 5 means when you switch off & on again PAS will always be set to that PAS level , 8 means PAS will be in the last level used. I always set my PAS to 0 so that one can't accidently activate pas and have the...

Tsdz2's do get hot when over powered this is borne out by heat issues on ES with their 500/750w models. My 250w model thus far appears to stay cool and the display shows it stays under 65c when towing, on ES temps in the 90's and above have been noted when they eke out the current and power My...

How the PAS kicks in is down to the operating system, I mainly use KT kuenteng control systems, but have a tsdz2 which is pretty much instant as is my friction drive kit.

All my ebikes give instant power within 1/4 pedal turn so have no need or desire for a moped type throttle.

C1, does the PAS work at this setting ? If not try 03. There should be C10 - C14. The D/D hub if used, should be set to P1/46.

Have an ask on cycle uk, quite a few ride the gain road bikes so may have the same displays and an answer.

I have one of these on my ute frame for my 48v 250w tsdz2. The motor CE label doesn't state 250w.

Of course it won't work as the programming won't allow it. I. is for the PAS and IV. is for a spd sensor, if you want throttle one will have to buy a new controller that has throttle input along with a matched display.

List the P & C values for us. There is little to go wrong if the parameters are ok. The most important one is as mentioned below the PAS setting . For motor setting P1 87 should be a good starting point. Two x red julet are brake sensors so reed sw type. Yellow julet is for throttle. If not...

Afaik one doesn't have to alter the wattage limit, just simply untick the street limit enabled box and write the new tab setting to the motor.

Yes I see it now IV matches the colours I mentioned so it is for an external speed magnet, the connection is often supplied in case of the internal hall failing or the magnet moving.

Were the dutch bikes using a walk assist throttle that is limited to 6km/h, if so they aren't designed to be used when riding just as a walk along method. There is nothing stoping one having a full operating throttle in the eu but don't be surprised if a heavy fine and bike confiscation were to...

Throttles certainly not legal in eu for pedelecs, just some forces may be more strict on there implementation.

If in europe one might not want to be caught out with a throttle pedelec.

41.6/7 is pretty well balanced as long as the voltage stays that way nothing to worry about. My swizzbee #1 battery is set for 4.15v balance via the LG BMS.

Is the three wire connection from the controller actually for a throttle ? If it is coloured Black/Red/White then it is likely a spare connection for an external wheel speed sensor and magnet. Being that one is in France it may be the case as the bike is made for EU country the throttle option...

If the chargers have an adjustable V pot then it is simple to use a VM to make the adjustment. Top balance depends on the BMS specs, top balance often occurs > 4.18v. Balance current is quite low at approx. 60ma - 80ma so the process is slow unless the balance is specific and set to a lower...

It doesn't have to exactly be 5v or 1v, the values may be lower.

#6 reported. Just for reference the post was reported as it was a spam reply quoting #3, this often occurs.