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That being so, means I weigh up the risk as to my safety and whether not to wear a hat or not. The fact I tend to ride in non sporty clothing and where a simple hat likely means I'm afforded more room then someone wearing a helmet and dashing about at speed. Once the whole country goes down...

A faultessly disguarded Lipo put out in day to day refuse has started a fire in a Bin lorry.

That's because of insurance and liabilites to operate as a venue. I have no need or any intention to ride in a false man made setting , so prefer to use nature natural resources in my location where the riding is all free.

Agree with you flecc one rides to the conditions, if it is fast downhill riding then a lid may be deemed essential. Even if I ride a 160k predominantly offroad route I may take a hard hat but not wear it unless I deem it is needed.

Drivers who have to pay are doing so as a previlege to keep on polluting, there bleating of how cycles pay nothing don't have a cause or even a leg to stand on with their whimsical grizzles.

Generally only a leather bush hat to keep sun and rain off my head.

As I see it, ride sensibly and safely then there is no need for specialist or ott thrill sports protection, It is speed that does the damage. For off road or thrill seeking riding then yes some protection is needed but for most riders it simply imv isn't needed.

The LHS bearing is a snug fit so one will need a magnet or invert that motor side for removal, but yes it is removable so the circlip can be got at. On the RHS the bearing may need loctiting in place if too loose.

We tell many on here after a first ebike for about the 1k mark, one won't go very wrong with a Woosh bike as a first step in to ebikes. The service during and after is very good.

The hub motor wire connectorb ( should be one on th front fork rhs), make sure it is 100% pushed full together. Disconnect the brake sensors at the connectors and try again. If still no joy one may have to suspect a controller issue. In need of repair depends on what the original issue was, at...

A lot of users will opt for checking other resources like ES forum for info on cells, there are a few mentions of 30Q self discharging on that forum.

From what I see in the three parameter tabs, there is nothing there that relates or affects speed sensing so nothing to adjust. The recommended gap is 10 - 15mm for spoke magnet, if he gap is too far then try placing a neodymium magnet on the spoke magnet to get the gap correct.

A larger chainring might mean a new front mech, it depends if the mech has the capacity for a larger ring. Ifthe existing mech has the capciity then it will need adjusitng on the seat tube and the wire tension adjusted.

The shorting/ sparking risk occurrs most in a sterile clean situation when one encounters the positve end, only the very center disc area is positve which sits on three or four legs. The outer ring/edge of the can on this end is negative hence why on a good build one will also see a cloth/card...

If deconstructing one first needs to remove all wire conenctions from bms and the bms. remove all the positive wiring to leave a bare battery pack. Place it on a nice non conductive protected surface. Start at either #14 on the side shown or #1 on the other face as this is the neg end of the can...

It makes no sense starting two threads the same, it was started in the correct tech forum where it belongs. The main reason for lack of responses is likely due to no one having the knowledge or experience to reply, if someone sees it they will respond. The other thread is in the correc tplace...

s866s e08 is a throttle issue or the code denotes that is where the issue lies. One needs to faut check the throttle hall to see if the issue is the hall. If you have block connectors simply poke your meter probes up the back of the wire connector block to contact the back of the metal pin, Gnd...

One needs at the minimun a malectric arduino welder and a quality lipo high rate pucker 3s cell pack, mine in all cost me £190 3.5 years ago and is still going strong.

Pure electric are scaling ebikes right back so not sure about spares/parts going fwd, they appear by the sounds of things concentrating on e scooters as the business model. Pure Electric to close majority of UK stores, full focus now on eScooters (cyclingindustry.news)

The pins are copper so should be relatively clean and need no cleaning, the tightness will be the plastic/rubbery connector bodies. Apply a very sparce tiny amount of spread from the fridge to the male Black part, it should ease pushing the two together.