Search results

For my Arkose I opted for the Revos friction drive from evolution works to keep the bike as light a spossible, that was over 3 years ago.

The best thing is for them to burn.

Not the first and not the last to occur, there will be many more to come. As has been said these are too dangerous to be used on footpaths whether shared or not and is it high time for them to be banned or the police come down harder on users now rather then later.

Having bought the Moli P42's, I have quickly built the battery up ready for use. Being only 12s2p the battery is just shy of 370wh at 8.4ah, but can easily do more then 40a continuously. The first job I do is cut the first and last cell buss so I can pre solder ready for the discharge wires to...

Never had self learn wires on any of the kT's I have bought or any I have looked at. Cruise and speed restriction yes , but not SL.

One suspects a setting has been changed.

I find my thumbs no longer ache or hurt and just the ease of use without barely moving my hand off the handle bar or brake if needed. The twist grip feels so right to me. Someone suffering arthritis may also find thumb pressure painful or not very easy to use.

Yes, smaller wheels depend on a faster motor winding to go faster so it boils down to the motor used. My dsplay allows me to set 49.9 but it is pontless doing so.

The motor is without halls an unsensored one. Pic one is Blue/Yel/Grn motor phase. Red/Blk battery. Pic two. Gry/Blk x2 brakes. Blu/Blk/Red PAS. There are two connectors I'm not sure what they are for. Thin Grn & Blk/Gry goes in and only Grn seems to exit and the Red/Wh & Blu/Wh, both lead to...

I don't know which hub you have as the pic doesn't open in a new pane. The controller is 15a max rated so one could use a kt dual voltage contorller and any one of a dozen displays, one will have to buy one with sm type connectors as yours is. One might have to chnage the PAS wire order if it...

The Kt lcd's don't restricted the speed as such, it is the motor winding that's likely holding you back for the small wheels.

The 790 isn't digital display, it is analogue so one can't use an lcd or for instance a km 880 as that is digital. Your only way out is to chnage controller and display as a matching pair.

Time to buy a nice alfinay twist grip shifter, I wouldn't be without mine and even on the Ute cargo bike I have a pair of shimano micro twist shifters ready to swap over for the triggers. As for the 14 year time span one could complain to Shimano and tell them it's just not good enough.

If near the end of the charge then balancing is likely occurring.

Batteries that use four or more cells in a parallel may have 10a rated cells so possibly 40a or more, most BMS allow for some over current over and above the continuous rating of the bms which may be 15, 20 or 25a, the fuse usally is at the same or approx 5a higher then the continuous rating...

Only one other possible P2/6. Other wise one will have to put up with it or tey another KT lcd. My lcd 4 is the same, no speed when coasting and sometimes erratic speeds esp when towing all the way up to 49.9. One suspects it is down to a dodgy display.

It is there to prevent power surge or heat damaging the controller. I have had a blade fuse and holder melt on 20a hub controller kit with a 44v battery.

Although to the uninitiated buying kit parts seperately can look like a minefield it needn't be so, buying reputable components which means not always the cheapest on the market means one can 80% of the time put a plug and play kit together. The two issues that can occur ares t the battery...

ES has some knowledgeable folks and some grandee's who know it all and have been there. Some of the responses to the lesser knowledgale folks esp with programming and battery issues on the big threads can be quite poor, because they know the answer and to them it is easy to fault find or find...

No not you, you have helped me out with my Java issues and one can't thank one enough for your time and patience.