Search results

I doubt if I would have said connect Red to Black as that would be totally irrational thing to say unless wiring up batteries in series.

Yes, but later if one needs a larger base they are easy to knock up and fit in situ using the same fixing bolts. I found my longer base flexed more so I bolted three extra ali 300mm 25mm sq sections to the under side which has solved the issue, one to the front in the middle of the span and...

The other day I realised with my modded trailer and the extra frame work of the long tail ute, I would have an issue connecting the tow arm as well as straining the QR with all the towing weight. So I put my heath robinson thinking cap on to come up with a solution I think will work by adding a...

Yes all in £110 is a good price.

You will need charger connection option 'E'. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154997603109?hash=item241693bb25:g:g3cAAOSwPqxigw28

I see now there is a 2.2 X model now and it has a larger base like my modded trailer, 609 euros is very exp and that isn't inc p &p, so reckon it would be nearer 750eu with vat.

Your PAS must be a V12 type model.

One can buy dual volatge controllers like Kt with displays the easy bit, what you will have to be careful with though is the hub motor and particularly the winding speed. If you buy a 36v hub it will run 33% faster at 48v so if wanting to climb hills one will need ideally a proper 48v wound hub...

The baseboard light holder I made from bits out of my spares bin. The CF and spares are not cheap now the jerry's have got there mitt's on it, and like the jerry built china made mid drive bikes they are very expensive for what they are. Like we have said if one can get one used for a good price...

Check your chargers fuse/s it will have one in the 13a plug and maybe one inside the charger, it's not improable one or the othe rhas blown if you get no V reading.

It is highly important to know the charger is outputting the correct voltageto prebent ove rcharge and fires occurring, although I have set ans adjusted mine I always check them periodically.

The rear lights are cheap ebay usb ones, I charge them and they last for weeks on end.

I don't know how WP the roll I got is but is is plenty sticky for sure. On the lid I taped it the whole way around so it can be seen from all angles and just added the few extra horizontal strips on the rear. For dull days I have the two rear flashing lights as well as the front and rear...

I spent £3.25 on a roll of 10mm reflective diamond tape to improve the visibility of my box for the trailer. I passed a bloke on the Worth Way today and he remarked saying " Now that is a proper way of using a bike ".

Test the charger on it own without it being connected to the battery, If the charger doesn't show 54.6v on the charge connector then it is duff.

Testing and back tracking the work you have already done, is part and parcel of fault finding. The Halls failed before so also can in the future, Hall testing and mosfet are pretty simple to do and only takes 10 mnis or less to carry them out, once done as I said it at least rules out two issues.

Looks pretty good for £110, esp as it is as new.

The battery reading 49.5v means nothing without knowing the 13 cell group voltages, to do that the shrinkwrap will have to be cut to access the bms to take those group readings.

Does the charger show 54.6v on the output lead ?

If an average was taken then 49.5v mean seach cell group is at 3.807v or approx. 55 - 62%. However one can only assume this is what may be so, if it were so then the bike should run. But if one cell group is out of balance it possibly could be 0.2, 0.3v or more out of balance which would mean...