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excellent location, good range, good price, knowledgeable people - what's there not to be liked?

I do wish the new group all the best. But can't help having a kind of deja vu feeling. The UK market is quite small, the number of models and vendors numerous so some kind of consolidation makes sense. However, most of the European bikes are distributed by just two or three other megalithic...

If you turn the magnet away, you only lose the speedo/odometer. The connectors are screw types, pretty good seal against water. If paranoid like me, you can always tape over the joints with self amalgamated ruberized tape. All BBS01 can run with 24V/36V/48V.

The aurora has 21-speed, the big bear only 7. It's an interesting idea to use a parallelogram seat pin to give the bike the comfort of a full-sus. Maybe more suppliers will take up the idea.

The video of the 48V version mounted on an Avanti D8 is amazing. The guy is nuts. Why oh why GNG don't make a better housing for it? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-_adbELvBZY

sine wave controller?

slow charging is definitely better. Fast charging needs to have an appropriate BMS because the charger has no way of knowing which cell is being overcharged. In Li-ion batteries, the Lithium ions are transported by oxidation and reduction of a transition metal, usually Cobalt. Overcharging...

can you be more precise on this, when you say the motor overheated, did it stop working or just sounded abnormal? If the motor stopped, then I think you have a strong case. Things like paint and quality of components are not so arguable.

It depends on the chemistry of your battery. 5A is not very high for electric bike batteries. For a 10AH Li-ion battery, charging at 5A would reduce the capacity twice as fast than charging at 2A. The following chart is from Basic to Advanced Battery Information from Battery University website:

charging current is usually 0.2C, 2A for a 10AH battery, 5 hours for 100% load. Which charger do you have?

nice piece of kit.

it shouldn't matter. Charging current is quite low in comparison to discharging.

denwyn, I think a throttle will sort out the problem of wobbliness when starting at the lights.

denwyn, if you don't mind me asking, how tall are you?

no name 5500 5AH pouch. I killed the BMS, kept the cells.

check the frame size (as measured from middle of the BB to the top of the seat tube). If you are shorter than 5ft7 (1.70M), you should go for 18" (45cm) frame.

I stabbed a Li-ion cell (80% charge, 4.0V) with a kitchen knife this afternoon to see what happened. I had a bucket full of water just in case. A fair amount o smelly vapour escaped from the pouch, a lot of heat but no fire. When the pouch became too hot to handle, I put it in the bucket. Vapour...

erm... regarding assistance at top speed, I can't. I meant to say that CD encourages you to pedal more and assistance can be kept at maximum at all speed. That ought to give CD bikes better acceleration. Also, most hub motors are limited to 200-230 RPM, CDs don't suffer that limitation.

also two more good reasons why CD is better for commuting, even on flat roads: easier puncture repairs and higher speed.

could it be because the hub bike's top speed is less than the CD's?