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The battery is quite unbalanced a BMS won't balance it in one go and may take several charge discharges to balance up a bit better when repaired. Is it an actual cell can connector or a sense wire ? If a cell has a detached spot weld, it will cause an issue due to intermittent contact and...

When the BMS doesn't charge it could be that it is in sleep mode as some batteries BMS have this mode. Often the refusal to charge can be because of a low cell group voltage, the BMS has an LVC (low voltage cut off) and if any one cell group is at or below this threshold it simply won't...

Third time lucky he might go and break his neck and do a proper job.

The speed magnet is a simple one to find as it is held in place on the face cover of the motor, so all one needs to do is remove the cassette gears ( 2min job ) with the wheel out of the bike and undo the 6 face covering screws on the hub motor. The magnet should be located in a small...

With any ebike esp hub bikes and old bikes there are very few LBS who will touch one let alone know what to do. Unfortunately the knowledge base amongst LBS is very poor when it comes to ebikes so the user in most cases are left to there own devices, the best LBS's tend to be forum's like this...

36v is only the battery nominal voltage and this approx. 40% capacity, it should charge to 42v max but anywhere between 41.5v - 42v is good. I would rejig the wiring as original and try the charger now it has some life to see if it might balance charge. Other wise as you have had the battery...

So ok, now you are saying no speed reading when riding. The info needed at the beginning of the thread. The motor would need opening to check for the magnet missing issue or find the main controller wiring to look and see if it can be tested. Adding an exterior wheel speed sensor may work if...

To resist bolts croppers and large ones, at least 16mm thickness is required. Chains for security are pretty much useless and only offer 2 or 3 secs at most. For out and about 2 decent D/ U locks should suffice for temporary locking up. Otherwise for longer spells a crappy looking bike that...

I didn't mention that the torque washer was ineffective as once it was known the Torque arm bolt was never fitted, the rotation would have been inevitable and obvious.

The op isn't helping at all with any useful answers. As the issue appears whilst the bike is being ridden then the mostly likely problem is the battery is knackered or on it is way to being so.

What is the bike model ?

A decent answer about the display would help !!! If it (the display) turns off then then the power has been disrupted, either the connection from battery to display is interrupted or more likely the battery is knackered. Under what circumstances does the bike turn off, some details of terrain...

Do you mean the display ? If so how old is the battery ?

Once I find the cells offer reduced range I shall re-cell with a better cell/greater capacity. My ones I know use Panny PF which are ok 2900mah 10a cells. I will likely have a look at a Moly M35a or EVE 33V for a really cheap option.

It's not a washer, it is a torque arm. It is a engineering difference and term.

P1 46 and P2 1 or 6. If still not getting a reading the speed sensor hall might be duff or the magnet is only one has come loose.

It needs to be 24v and some how a fly lead from the battery base needs adding as I believe the motor controller is inside the battery receiver base. The battery is just a two pin connection so +/- and a simple generic hook up. I haven't bothered looking in to mine as I have two 208wh batteries...

Yes if you can find one for a horizontal drop out, if not find a local engineering firm to see if they can make one from your example.

I expect it is a m6 threaded hole so try an m6 bolt.

A bolt has to be fitted to stop the axls and TA rotating, the torque washer is only a locator to align the axle up, it is obvious now the axel tried to rotate tearing the motor cable. A bolt in that TA and secured to the drop out tapped hole would have prevented it occurring.