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This one should looks like it might do the job, but to be sure one might be better going to a LBS for one. DT Swiss 3-Pawl Freehub body aluminium Shimano MTB 7630024330703 | eBay

For parts Halfrauds is ok or any LBS, take it in to one for a replacement or learn to replace the sealed bearings. There are numerous types of freehub, you need a Shimano three pawl model 8/9 spd. Do the three pawls on the end depress ok ? The pressed springs look a bit rusty so the pawls...

The freehub body axle should be clean no grease is needed.

The baring's are in a sealed race and there are two, each one can be seen either end of the free hub. One should be able to put a finger in a rotate the internal face of the race to see if how well they rotate. To access the bearings, on the outer face of the freehub (lock ring end) there is an...

The reason for the extra contacts is because some brands may want to add extra comm's for the charger or controller so one can't buy cheaper replacement stuff or allow on bike charging so use two extra pins for a separate charge port if the battery one is unavailable when on the bike.

9 weeks from mainland China isn't bad for a battery.

It's not a 7amp battery but a 7ah battery, there is a big difference.

That is still 576w output so about right for a 250w rated motor. If wanting a 250w rated motor one can't have his cake and eat it. The 15a rating you speak of will be for the 36v 250w model which is 540w output.

One should see an ohms value and not a voltage value, for the Black/Low side one is looking for three results all approx. the same value usually about 9.7 - 10 ohms but this value can be a little lower or higher. For the high side /Red wire test the value needs to be anything except 0.

From the pics you are using the wrong scale for mosfet testing, one should be using the DC 20 or 200ohms selector. As the probes are covering the meter's dial one can't see what the dial is set at, but is isn't the 20 or 200ohms setting.

Glad you found the issue as I mentioned in #25 the reason for the shutting down. It is logic that is needed to cypher some issues. Just like your tv or other appliance that suddenly turns off the point to look at is power supply and it's delivery.

For self build bikes one needs to first be competent with working with their hands and a general basic knowledge of mechanics and electrics. Probably missing from a lot who go down that route. I remember as a young teen many years ago having my bike in pieces and mum saying that's the last...

Those using a Yamaha PW motor/battery combo can now save few quid by using a third party battery on the bike. A dongle has been designed to hack the system to use said third party battery. Although CANbus isn't used the motor/battery still use comms between each other and the charger. Battery...

Yes, it is for long rides so you can plug your kettle in :p .

My bespoke homebuilt water bottle battery is 24 cells for 44v 6ah battery range is 30 miles, it still comes in at 3.5lbs.

Regarding #1 you have confused two of us by saying 'smallest in frame in frame battery'. The question should have been smallest triangle frame battery. Again the answer still is how far one wants to ride as it appears you are after longer range.

Pretty much, though not what the suggested thread heading suggests. 48v 17ah will be far from the smallest.

The important factor is the specs of whether the battery is actually capable of supplying the current continuously. For the physical size one would have to go bespoke.

Before deciding on the smallest battery available one has to know the needs of the controller, so the max current it will draw. Then a battery needs a continuous current draw rating some 25% or more above the controller rating. A properly small battery will then have to be bespoke made as it is...

It does the same job.