Search results

Simpy put yes, you may also may need to change to an OSF display as well for 14s which then opens a bigger can of worms. The std supplied displays only have config for 36 or 48v in the OSF for them. Also look at swizz's thread. Experiences with Open Source Firmware on the Tongsheng TSDZ2 |...

tsdz won't work with 14s and from the original voltage, the op is only part charging anyway. WIth OSF one can configure cells as 14s and it may work, but generally the std firmware will be looking for 13s and 54.6v max. It is simply cutting out to over voltage and the fact the firmware doesn't...

Yes, it is a whole 1v short of being charged, if it doesn't reach at least 41.5/41.6v then it is out of balance or has a duff cell bank. 6hrs it should be nearly finished charging for a 11.6ah battery so looks like there may an issue. Wait and see what the final voltage is once the charger goes...

You are likely now the foremost knowledgeable guy on internet forums who knows anything about the erider 15 now, so go fwd and brag about it on the erider forum as well :):);). I doff my hat to you for sheer perseverance with what appeared to be a dark alley.

43km/h is the no load speed, the actual real world speed will be lower and I would have thought about 32km/h. This is still more then erider 15 should be which is stated as 25km/h. Well done though for getting it working, credit to Matt for the last bit regarding the motor wire info as this is...

Show us a proper pic of your exact fork dropouts without the hub fitted.

What battery are you using , how many cells in series ? Is it by any chance 14s/52v ? 56.6v is too high so the tsdz doesn't recognise it in std form, one will need to re program with OSF to use greater then 13s/48v battery.

Agree pete all the generic rubbish palmed off for DD hub bikes are just not up to it except as a 5/10 mile run about, it's worse when they are sold as part of a full kit.

I wouldn't bother with their advice , the guy is a fool. Of course it matters if one side is 1cm lower, axles need to sit level in the horizontal plain.

Remove the motor wheel and rotate the axle manually, one should then feel any rough bearing rotation. If the motor powers ok then could be the reason for the noise. Can you record the operation and post it for us to hear/see ?

Yep agree flecc. Locally I defer to buses as they are public transport. It is common sense but that which is lacking amongst a lot of the drivers on todays roads. We see it at all junctions to many approaching with far to much speed and little time to react when they realise they haven't allowed...

One suspects the wheel hasn't been fitted back in properly again then.

Voltage on the power side, as long as it has voltage it doesn't matter. The Red as we know will be battery voltage, the blue is return voltage from the display.

Forget about watt's this and watt's that, look for a battery that simply can offer a continuous current draw that is some 20/25% or greater then your controllers max out put. For a 20a controller one wants a battery with 25a continuous or more. A 30a controller wants a battery with 40a...

Unless the wheel was badly trued/dished in the factory, one would think it is user error if the wheel has been removed.

The Daily Fail is anti cyclist anyway and always biased against cycling and this from a paper that were pro Nazi 70 years ago. Cyclists can and should ride out of the gutter, no reason not to ride a metre out. Take the prime position/middle of the lane if clear and approaching well before a...

Is this a self build or oem bike ? Likely cause is incorrect set up/positioning of washers/anti rotation washers on the axle drop out. If a diy build then one would suspect the wheel needs dishing by adjusting the spoke tension to centralise the rim/tyre.

If using the bike for towing heavy veg and using hills, go for more torque. Try using high current with a much lower speed set in the limit tab, then one should gain better current supply at the expense of the motor also trying to maintain speed. Mix and match the setting so you have 5 or 6...

Any display in most cases has to be compatible with controller brand, one can't just throw any thing together.

Does the wheel with power off, offer up any fwd resistance or does it freewheel nicely. Like wise in reverse it should offer a slight whirring as the clutch gearing engages. Internally there is little to go wrong barring nylon clutch gears wearing and the odd bearing failing, bearings can be...