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Now the paper has been lifted it looks like heat is causing the paper glue to weep through. The sense wires with heat sleeves are laying directly across the interconnectors.

One can try a new sensor by willy nilly replacing it to see if a new one works, what ever one does the wire connector needs to be exposed any way to swap it out and to confirm the connector type used.

Controller looks to be between battery bottom and seat tube. As for a manual one would need to know the actual brand and display type, look on the back for any name/writing. The one feature that is nice is it displays battery voltage.

Does the sensor wiring end with a block type connector or water proof type ? If the former then one can use a meter to determine if a fault may lie within.

The paper is an insulator /protector and is quite hard wearing. Re use the paper if poss and use a wrap or two of kapton tape to bind it again. Once lifted it depends what the cells look like and whether leaking has occurred, leaking will show up as the cell wrap will be bubbly/rough...

You will likely only find silly micky mouse mudguards as the bike isn't designed for traditional road/commute use but for off road where mudguards are of little use. Putting it mildly it isn't a sensible bike to use and wanting to stay clean. For the rear one can try a mud hugger available on...

That is just an lcd display, the controller is either a metal box type or one integrated at the base of the battery.

The BMS looks like it is 22a continuous so one could go 20a if the programming allows. The stains I would lift the paper insulation covering to look, does it smell of electrolyte ?

For a reading in use you may be able to add a fly lead from the battery connector, if not then form the motor controller. For charging take a battery reading when hot off the charger.

The cells are Sam 29e and 4 in parallel so a bit tight on higher current use in that config, 11a continuous is about there max draw before stressing them. Which PAS mode is used the most and the controller max current rating ?

As I mentioned we need a voltage reading from a meter when it is fully charged as that can give a idea if something may be amiss. Just because a charger light goes green or the battery says it is charged means little as neither give an actual reading.

As long as it isn't a customer custom job then all should work. For instance cyclotricity use a custom version for there dual 250/1000w illegal kits, a std KT display doesn't work for the 1000w mode.

Try moving the sensor or magnet disc closer together, a 1mm gap is an optimum gap so see if that will work.

Show us what you currently have via pic and tell us the issues you have and want to achieve. With my latest scratch build of the Cotic Roadrat I used a Small frame so the reach was too upright for me, for comfort I only fit swept bars with GP grips and to compensate fitted a 140mm stem.

What battery type ?

Usually indicative of battery voltage sagging/collapsing under load usually age related or knackered cells with high resistance. If you have voltage readout on the lcd5 use it and watch the voltage to see what occurs. The fact it is happening in PAS 3 one understands but also in PAS 1 isn't good.

Any good LBS can do the work or look locally to see if there is a community bike workshop. In honesty it is also a a pretty simple job for a non savvy bike owner to carry out with a few Allen keys.

Stanecoke yes that's the one, I didn't find it on ES but came across it on pedelec.de where his user name is Hochsitzcola.

You need to do as I said in #5. Another theory is that motor phase sync has been lost, does the display have any advanced setting parameters ?

Hall failure in the hub motor is a likely cause or controller mosfet blown, either way both need testing for with a meter to rule out one way or the other.