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The cable will be fine all you can do is carry out a continuation check on the wiring. What is likely happening is that with the new controller motor halls and phases are out of sync so one has to change the wire positions, to do so you need block connectors. If you have motor halls then there...

A good spot Awol, maxles front and rear, it will have to be a mid drive, friction drive or a different bike.

Grease is a bit sparse, it won't hurt to put a nice dollop in there and it will run quieter as well. Any non petroleum based one is good so as not to damage the nylon gears. Other wise yes the motor is spick n span, I have ridden my bafang cst through water over the axle with no water ingress on...

If the axle sits fully in the drop out (or I should say the flats of the axle are fully in the drop outs) then all you need is a torque arm, ideally use one each side for the DD hubs. A one piece TA is best with no moving joint, depending on the area around the drop out it may be possible to...

All you need is to match the axle profile as best as you can to the drop out, often you can use the flat file to lose some of the round but do not end up right angle on the seat of the drop out. Typically dropouts are for 9mm skewers, a geared hub motor is normally 12 x 10mm. Sometimes the 10mm...

No.

The hub won't cause the electrical connection issue of melting contacts.

I used a dremmel tool and a small chain saw 4 or 5mm round file for finsishing, the last thing you want is any squaring off of corners.

I can hit 22mph with my Pinnacle Arkose Gravel using the above tyres, the kit is a 24v friction drive.

You will need the 260rpm model to manage the 22mph at 48v. LHS PAS shouldn't be an issue. Your main concern with 47c is tyre choice. Something like the Specialized Pathfinder pro would be one to look at for faster running, a central raised tread less section 10mm wide with tread on the rest for...

I agree with SW, it's no brainer one can get a diagnostic readout from a bosh dealer with the right equipment. A £50 or so charge may save a lot of grief before you buy it.

How many power levels ? Feeling the same in the power levels as the throttle indicates it is speed control and each level will give max current, so the battery will be struggling however it is used. We will need to see the wiring on the PAS & controller connection to see if the sequence needs...

For 2 wire brake if they don't work just switch the wires.

He was of no use ..

The battery can't supply enough power for the controller and is underrated, using throttle shows up the lack of power delivery. The controller at 13a asking for 30% more power then the battery is capable of. Is the pas disc to sensor gap 1mm ? The PAS could still be wired incorrect, the led...

A bike and aeronautics are chalk and cheese, the latter suffering from compression issues and much greater speed and stress. I would be more concerned with CF bike giving way under me then a 1 - 5mm gentle stretching of rear ali bike stay's.

PAS has nothing to do with the hub, PAS works with sensored and sensor less hubs. 1. If PAS isn't working then it is either set up incorrect or the wire sequence is incorrect. 2. What is the battery continuous rating (amps) and the controller amp rating ? Is the hub motor cable connection...

It may be in the controller who knows. All I can say is that the melting of those two pins isn't normal or right. Are you 100% sure polarity is correct on both sides of the battery contact.

The two uses are totally different house sparks are immobile once fitted they just sit there. An ebike suffers all the vibes and rattles a road or off road gives, you want good connections that won't fail and cause a short on an ebike.

Nothing looked out of place but there is conflict polarity shorting somewhere to cause the melting contacts.