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If you have no PAS fitted, then you using any of the levels is pointless as they only relate to PAS use. With throttle only you will be using equivalent power to PAS 5 which is max current, try reducing the current via C5.

Aother option I would consider is a nice lifepo4 battery they will have twice the life of lion and about 6x that of SLA. Depends on the current demand of the mob scooter. Ultramax LI10-24, 24v 10Ah (240Wh, 40A rate) LiFePO4 Battery - Replace SLA 24V 10Ah with 4 times cycle life, lighter...

The 25v currently shown is the resting voltage, fully charged you should see 29.4v and empty will be about 21v. Once suspects the 25v will collapse once a load is asked of it. As you are familiar with voltage reading do as I mentioned and fully charge, take a reading and let us know what it...

I doubt you will be able to buy a 7s 7p battery easily unless from a mobility shop (which will likely mean 'HOW MUCH') or you contact Jimmy at ebikebatteries.co.uk and he will replace the cells a lot cheaper but still expect to see a £300 - £350 cost, for that though you will get some of the...

This describes typically the end of life of a battery pack and is due for recycling, as SW has said it very much does indicate you need a new battery and not just a BMS. The BMS deals with the charge and discharge of the cells groups and battery pack as a whole. Though the battery may well...

Your battery is 7s 7p, 7 cell groups in series with 7 cells per parallel group. The Red cell ring is the V+ and the Blue un- ringed is V-. In pic#1 the Black thick wire from cell to BMS is connected to cell group B- /0v, the next cell group to it (Red) is #2, and then the next #4 and the end...

You will have to be careful using PAS5 as as you have seen the controller gets hot, if the climb speed becomes too low eventually you may well find you will suffer thermal cut outs. In hindsight you should have got a 9 fet KT do deal with the heat better.

No because the motor speed cuts out legally within in 15.5pmh +/- 10%, extra speed is generated by human power only over and beyond the cut off. Though not as capable as I used to be, I can still top 24mph on the drops of my gravel bike with the Revos friction drive, my hubs about 20/22 mph.

Have you checked that the BBS unit is tight and not knocking against the frame under torque ? Try a piece of rubber or a pad buffer between it and the frame. Or better still a short film to show/hear the noise.

Have you checked to make sure it's not your knees :D.

Don't get paranoid by plod, on all my bikes I can ride well above the cut off speed so following me would prove nothing .

The Liitokala as you have found out is an ok pack for the price and one can't complain too much about the performance. With a decent properly good pack you will get more then 60% capacity without too much fear of sag as the voltage decreases and will see you will get 80% - 90% use before sag...

The end plate bearing failure is normal, I have had it on my Bafang CST as well and the lid only requires six fixings to be undone drive out and replace the bearing and screw the lid back on. It doesn't take long. With my cst as I replaced all four bearings for about a tenner as once open it...

I have not had a KT controller fail completely in 7 years of use, the only fault i have had is thermal cutting out due to over heating. KT are pretty damn reliable. All I will say is, if your riding is hilly and slow or off road and you use high current then opt for a 9 fet controller over the...

The bearings aren't duff they just have a lot or pressure and work to maintain, my BPM hub (Big Bear kit) I had to service at 1600 miles because the end plate bearing was noisy and rough as buggery when I changed it.

Yes if you want to one sets the C4 parameter to value 1 or use value 2 and input the speed limit manually, other wise you set it to 25km/h and opt for pedal 1st option using parameter P4 value 1. As long as the throttle isn't twist and go on it's own , you can set it to 25km/h and be legal.

It's fine you know polarity etc, so would have been best to have posted a pic having got it correct. There will be a few members who look at these posts trying to gain knowledge, I pointed out the errors as they are a benefit to all who view. However posting the pic of the inaccuracy with the -...

Can you as vfr has mentioned do the voltage checks again (make sure the meter's battery is good so you get correct readings), if 36v across the board and all 10 cell groups are good then charge should occur, however you have mentioned 17v no way will the BMS allow charge at this voltage.

Test the mosfets whilst the controller is open with no battery power. Set meter dial to 20k or 200k ohms and probe the Black battery wire at discharge pin against the three thick phase lines you can see on the board in front of the fets, one should see about 9k ohms for each one or at least...

The - 34.2 is fine and is almost equal to that of the discharge voltage, all the - means is you have the probes on the wrong pole and polarity is reversed. So reverse the probes and then mark the V+ wire so you know which it is, one of the Black charge wires has a secondary White stripe on it...