Search results

This is what kits are in the main.

£300 won't buy much, for most it would just about cover a reasonable battery cost.

Though with meter testing it may mean you can't facilitate a physical repair sometimes, it does/can pin point where the failure is and a possible reason why, in turn reducing the need to guess at what is wrong. In the past we have had folks willy nilly replacing parts and still none the wiser...

Tbh no LBS will really touch it because they haven't a clue of how to test, unless it is a branded mid drive type bike which plugs in to a pc. The they are the cleverest ebike repairers in the country, I believe the actual knowledge base amongst most LBS selling ebikes is pretty non existent...

There's nothing in the software to allow this to happen. Though what you can do is add a password via C9 in the settings then only you will have access to unlock the screen.

The testers only gives you a LED indication that something may be working but no real world reading of any figures, the meter readings are simpler to understand with phases you are looking for a specific range in numbers when ohms testing and like wise with any 5v reading you want to see any 5v...

Yes axles are only 9mm for QR so with the 14mm hub axle you need to have the axle flat fully in the drop out so the D/O requires filing deeper, in your case 3 or 4mm even with the T/A's in place. The A/R tabbed washer sits also into the drop out, they are there just to locate the axle in place...

I knew I had seen it before, never mind Dave Woosh now owe you a beer or three.

For about £169 the lifepo4 isn't a bad price to be mobile again and could easily last 10 years. You shouldn't have any issues with current supply as the lifepo4 I linked to was 40a capable, just check the needs of your chariot first and the battery size.

Plug the sensor in and pass the disc pass the sensor to see which way is the correct orientation for working (not forgetting to have the drive wheel off the ground). Mark the disc face with stick tape so you know correct face, so much easier then fitting it all then find it is wrong.

Yes you will have to check with each airline to see what wh batteries are allowed, I think most will allow two separate batteries in hand luggage. The wh does vary from 100 - about 160wh per battery, so you need to do your homework first before buying esp if you are using the budget carriers.

Don't see them around here in town.

The other issue is cutting and shutting the frame to fit a mid drive motor bracket, for the diyer these type of mid drive just aren't practical on a diy scale. Diy is for a cheaper option not to over complicate with specialist welding and jigs to align the frame and fitting.

The lifepo4 option for a mobility scooter is no brainer imv, unlike an ebike the heavier battery weight ( approx. 30%) isn't noticeable on such a vehicle. Once ebikes all used sla, lifepo4, nicad & nimh all varying in weight but them lithium made things a lot lighter. SLA was always the cheap...

A neat touch that torque arm Tony.

Yes omit the joob clip as certainly a weak link, your option is one which others have used and much better. A one piece solution is best and the two piece option is next best.

My regular downhill from Pease Pottage services I can top 40mph +.

Check two things first. 1.From the hub motor trace the motor cable to the motor - controller connector (it should be somewhere along the chain stay), make sure the connector is fully pushed home (don't just look at it). It physically needs checking that it is fully pushed together as it only...

Which brands have you been looking at and have not heard of ?

You need to tell us what occurred apart from controller was rather hot. Did you have cut outs ? Did the bike stop working and wouldn't start again ?