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Need a new display likely. Ebikes direct sell them so one could try them for spares other wise one will need to look for the controller box to find the maker. If the 3 sp display is an analogue display (non digital ) with only 4 wires then you might be able to use a generic 4 wire model...

If a regular cyclist and a keen diy'er wheel building is a skill well worth trying and in all isn't as hard a sit looks once one has built a couple of wheels. The obvious way it to start with an unused wheel dismantle in to it's three component parts and begin again.

Not forgetting bosh motors are manufactured in China/far east.

My radial truing is within a couple off mm so plenty good enough for me, I made my own truing stand out of timber, surprisingly works a treat. I use it for complete wheel builds but once on the bike any issues and like you I have cable ties permanently on the stays.

Is this a wheel with no motor ?

Yet another HESC issue, it may seem trivial but it is annoying to owners if it keeps occurring. Now all one has to do is try and trace the issue, most logical is the batter discharge contacts, does the battery rattle or move ? It shouldn't need it but maybe extra straps to secure it.

Some items from China can take a long time one has to be patient esp with batteries and couriers, it all depends on the posting terms and channel used 3 months sometimes.

Hello Nikki, I can't answer for everyone but I am fine thankyou. Tell us about your ebike.

These china cheapo cells could well be old duff branded cells re-wrapped hence the very poor mah ratings, of course we know 3400/3500mah is the max these cells can handle. I wasn't at surprised by the 3500 rated cells not reaching that mark as most are 3400mah rated, over the years...

As a spare repairs on ebay someone will take delight in trying to resurrect the hub as a working hub again, we have seen it on here before with terrible looking pics. Also one doesn't have to use the same hub, if it has the nine pin connector any hub will work a the pin layout sequence is the...

You are one of the fortunate ones, not every one will get the same treatment.

What is wrong with your current hub ?

The numbers will relate to production s/n , date or a combo of both.

The noise if loud electrical is likely a phase sync issue, if so one shouldn't run the bike like it. C2 is for phase so you can try the other C2 values if C2/0 doesn't cure it. Are you able to post a sound/short film of the motor running ? The conversion to kt has been done successfully before...

It may be that the two businesses may be of use to each other ?

The 9 fet probably is a bit too big to fit in the controller housing so you may have to opt for a 6 fet model, they can be had as 15, 17 or 20a.

Error 30 is comm's and could be anything between display and controller in the wire loom. For 5 assist levels don't mess about and buy the well regarded KT stuff, a KT 9 fet controller rather then a 6 fet model and couple it with one of a dozen displays. LCD 3 is bullet proof and the lcd4 is...

Swapping over cases shouldn't prove difficult if they are the same ( but 5- 10mm here or there may make a difference, the only bits that might need soldering are the charge/discharge wiring and any switch if non are the same. Maybe offer up some pics side by side with some measurements for us...

45nm is not a bad torque figure for a hub from 2013/14.

In the days when Wisper and freego were one and the same, circa 2013/14. This is before David Miall current director set up AMPS in 7 oaks who now produce bikes under the Wisper brand.