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Andy, you never learn, do you? Instead of hunting for random stuff on the internet and then trying to explain what you think you learned as if you're some expert, get some real parts and look at them, then figure out how they work. Ask questions about what you don't understand. Through that...

The capacitor's job isn't to power the motor. It's there to smooth out the battery current. As you rightly say, the demand from the controller is high frequency pulses at an average current of say 17 amps., when going slowly up a hill. To achieve that average, the individual pulses would have...

2J per 0.04secs is 0.08W!

You need to get the present one out to see its size, then you can compare. What additional functionality do you want? If you want to switch off the light, unscrew the 4 screws that hold the light on, pull it forward and cut one of the two wires unless there is a connector there that you can...

Did you zoom in enough? When did you check it? Did you select cycling in both the maps and navigation?

List the settings in the LCD P01 to P20, like above.

What I saw had a chrome rear mudguard. Don't the B50s have painted ones?

That's what I said in post #3!

Let me guess. Hmmmmm! I think I can see it in my mind's eye. It's a BSA B25 SS 1971.

If you don't get 5v between the red and black wires on the PAS or hall sensors, the controller is either not active or the 5v regulator is blown. Regulators don't cost much and are easy to replace. You can trace what happens to the voltage from the blue wire. It goes through a big resistor to...

You can run it down on the bike, but then you have to disconnect it completely, then reconnect it to reset the control panel. Also, when disconnected, you should short out the terminals on the bike to discharge the capacitor in the controller. You might get a spark when you do that, but it's...

10 volts is probably leakage voltage when it's switched off, not the actual voltage. Some batteries go to sleep if not used for a while, and there's a wake-up procedure. Check the handbook before you get ripped off by whoever is checking it.

You're incorrect. I use 48v to get more torque at lower current, not for increased speed. I run a 14A controller, which gives me more than enough power for the steepest hills. I keep telling you that you should change to 48v, but you don't listen.

If your LCD has 36v and 48v written on it, it's a dual voltage one. either it's set to the wrong voltage in the settings, or if it doesn't have a setting, it's automatic and wrongly interpreting your battery. You can try running down your battery to around 37v or more, then reconnecting to the...

My 36v Q128c motor has done 4000 miles so far at 48v. As I already said, motors don't care about voltage. It's current that burns them. You're more likely to burn something at 36v and 20 amps than you are with 48v and 15 amps. The power is the same, and so is the torque.

Disregard everything in the above post. None of it applies to your bike. Unfortunately, you have to go to a Kalkhoff dealer to get a diagnosis, because you need special equipment, even then, you'll probably be lucky to find one with the knowhow and wherewithal to sort it. The motor, battery and...

You have to make your own.

Some of them are quite good if you get a battery of at least 48v and a fair amount of capacity, like the Eskuta. Some have throttles. I heard that Eskuta got special dispensation for them, but I never had that confirmed. Without the throttle, you only have to rotate the pedals slowly without...

Incorrect adjustment of the B-screw on the back of the derailleur or the chain is too long. The motor puts four times as much force on the chain compared with you on your own. Problems might not show themselves until under maximum stress.

That could be the cause of the problem. If the two tangs touch, you won't be able to tighten the nut to the frame. Those tangs are not enough to stop rotation. 90% of the resistance to rotation comes from the friction when the nut is tight.