These controllers have loads of settings in them for everything. If you don't set them right, things don't work. You can only change them with an LCD. This will explain about the settings:
http://www.szktdz.com/upload/file/20200222/20200222162113_87025.pdf
I've had that problem several times, always with those wavy discs. I build a bike, then find that the waves touch the top of the caliper. I solve it either with a different caliper adaptor, inverting the adaptor or by using washers as spacers. If it's close, it comes back when you use the brake...
There aren't really any other reasons other than it's an illusion. When you have level 5 power on, pedalling is very easy compared with no power - so easy that you think you can freewheel.
Jumpy PAS is normally from either an uneven gap between the sensor and the magnet disc of the magnet disc...
OK. Lift the wheel off the ground and turn it by hand in each direction. You should be able to feel the internal gears turning when going backwards, and it should be free when you turn it forwards. If it's the same each way, the clutch is stuck.
Next, give it a spin forwards to see that nothing...
There should be battery voltage (around 40v) between the red and the black. You're not helping us to help you when you start inventing your own theories.
I think you need to check that speed with GPS. 20 mph with 18" wheels would be 387 rpm, but to get that speed on the road, you'd be at around 75 - 80% of max no-load rpm because you'd already be well down the power ramp after the back emf controls the power level. Even at 80%, that would mean...
Did you measure that 5v with the control panel connected or not. if it was connected, measure again, then measure with it disconnected. As I said, those two wires are connected directly to the other battery wires, so the voltage can't be different.
That sound a bit fast. can you check the actual no-load speed?
The 328 rpm motors do 22 mph no load speed in a 20" wheel so it'll be closer to 18 mph in a 16" wheel. That's with a fully charged battery at 42v. The real world speed is a lot less than that. The Brompton that I converted with a...
Yes, but 36v x 15 amps = 540W and 22v x 30 amps = 660W.
Whatever the numbers, If you have a go on a Gocycle set to full power and speed, you will see straight away, that it's significantly more powerful than your average legal ebike. IIRC, we were getting well over 20mph around the test track...
I have the solution. Put another hub-motor in whichever wheel is spare, ideally the front one so that you can put it in backwards, otherwise use a DD motor. Put a three-phase bridge rectifier on the motor wires and connect the DC wires to your battery. Whenever you're in motion, that will act as...
Just out of interest, what happened to your Kalkhoff Impulse? Last I heard was that it was still going strong at 2000 miles, but that was three years ago.
Hall sensors are the things that are attached to the green printed circuit board in your OP. The controller uses them to get the position of the motor so that it can fire its power pulses at the right time. When it gets the timing wrong, you get that rasping sound and vibration. Mosfets are like...