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Thanks for that. He won't be able to see what I've done because I changed my account. I had over 20,000 posts on my old one.

I paid cash for mine! I've got loads of money. I'm just about to buy another house for cash to add to the five I already have. Since the Brexit vote, I seem to be getting more and more wealthy. Maybe there are a load of other guys like me.

I'm a chartered graduate mechanical engineer, I have a post graduate degree, I taught electronics for 10 years, and I worked as an ebike mechanic for three years. I can tell from what you're saying, that you have absolutely no idea about ebikes - just spouting textbook bullshit. If you know so...

Trust me, it's dangerous. it'll engage when you least expect it.

It must be something passive like that.

You must disable the cruise control. It's dangerous enough with brake sensors, but you haven't got any.

There was one model of Wisper that had problems with melted fuse holders, so have a look at that. Another thing worth checking is the solder joints on the back of the key-switch. Re-melt them and give them plenty of heat just to make sure because they can look OK, but aren't.

You've absolutely no idea. These are Chinese products! I've been to China, met the engineers and visited the factories. Most of them don't have a clue. They just copy from each other from one factory to the next. There are no calculations. We know what the margins are from thousands of empirical...

Another happy ending - very heart-warming.

My latest, which is absolutely brilliant - fits well with what they say in the ad above. I wish I had bought one sooner. If you haven't ridden one, get a test drive. It has electric screen, traction control, keyless ignition, and it does 80 mpg. I still have my Deauville 700 and my BSA A10, but...

For off-road riding, get a mid motor, and for on-road riding get a rear hub-motor.. You should choose an older frame/donor bike with a conventional 68mm bottom bracket for a first mid-motor conversion.

Here's my opinion on what you should get, based on a few years of commuting 15 miles each way: A 10Ah battery would be enough, but a bigger one will give you more time running at maximum power. Hydraulic disc brakes are set and forget. They work consistently, and the pads last for ages. Avoid...

You can't have a discharge chart without a load. Unloaded, the chart would be a horizontal line at 4.2v. The chart I linked showed 5 hours to discharge a 2.5Ah battery, so the load was 0.5A, which isn't far from unloaded. If you hunt through the various manufacturers' data sheet, they normally...

You'll need adaptors and other modifications to fit a mid-drive because of the PF bottom bracket. those sort of frames are a nightmare to convert - not good for a first time conversion. Start by telling us what you want to do with the bike, then maybe we can help.

The new controller won't work with them. The only question is whether the battery will still work without the communication. Do you get the full voltage on the two main battery connections when the battery is switched on? If not, you'll have to change the BMS in the battery. In 10 years of...

Bridge the red and blue wires and bridge the two data wires, which are not red, blue or black.

Those motor kits are cheap for a reason. They're generally not recommended. Also, you'd need to buy new forks because the motor has a 14mm axle, so you'll have to do a lot of filing of your drop-outs to get it in, then it'll probably break them anyway. For these motors, you need steel forks...

You don't understand. If you have a 12mm axle, it'll be a through-axle with a hole in the frame to pass it through. There is no physical way to install a hub-motor in that type of frame. You need a frame with normal drop-outs for a QR axle if you want to use a hub-motor. When I say none, I...

There are loads of data on this site. Use 3.1v as the cut-off (0% charge) and count the rectangles to get the percentages. https://batterybro.com/products/samsung-25r5-green-inr1865025r5-2500mah-20a

I'm trying to modify a spare Freego controller, so that you can use it to test your motor. I'm worried that your motor's hall sensors are damaged. It's only a small chance, so nothing to worry about, but it affects the choice of controller to sort you out. I don't want you to end up with a...