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None. You can't put a hub motor in a through axle frame.

It's very rare that you can make an economic case for an ebike unless you completely replace your car with an ebike to save on the car's depreciation, road tax and insurance. Exercise, fun, convenience and necessity are valid justifications.

Only if you open the throttle or turn the pedals. Why would you leave the LCD switched on if you're locking your bike?

I think that's a bit negative . I've increased speed and power on many OEM bikes, and over the 10 years on this forum, I've advised many others also what they can do. I've never had a problem, nor had a report of a problem as a result of my recommendations. There's a massive safety margin in...

Show us what you have!

I'd chuck all the electrics apart from the motor. £200 should be enough to get a lightweight battery plus mounting, a decent controller plus throttle, PAS, speed sensor and LCD. You're then master of your ebike instead of slave to it.

I don't understand you guys. What is it, a Holzman inkblot test to see how nuts we are? If you want help, gives photos that actually show what you have. The white connector is the motor hall sensors, the long black blob the torque sensor (guess) and the other one a cadence sensor (guess)...

You guys need to help us to help you. Show us what you have and what the problem is.

It won't work on 12v. It'll most likely blow the hall sensor in the PAS as soon as you connect. Show us some pictures of the crank. Maybe we can tell you where to get one.

That's it, or you can file/grind down a standard 12mm washer to fit in the dimple, or you can file the drop-out deeper to re-centralise the axle - anything as long as the nut or a washer doesn't tighten against the lip.

OK. I'll post in the morning. i want to think about a couple of ideas.

That reminds me of when one of the motorbike magazines did a test of the Honda CB125 twin against the Harley Davidson 1250 sportster. The Honda was faster, better handling, better on fuel, had better brakes and was more reliable than the HD during the test, and it cost 1/10th of what the HD cost.

That doesn't look at all right to me and it worries me. I think we need to take a couple of steps back. Are your drop-outs dimpled (lawyers lips) on the outside? If so, do you know the rule that nothing outboard of the drop-out should overlap the surface around the dimple? If the nut or washer...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mini-Led-Waterproof-Display-Voltmeter-Car-Voltage-Volt-Gauge-Panel-5V-30V-DC/193379337338?hash=item2d064e847a:g:6foAAOSwkBteafpb

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.Xsaddle+bag.TRS0&_nkw=saddle+bag&_sacat=0

OK. it's looking like something is wrong with both your controller and control panel. The root cause could be in either or both. There's a very small risk that the pedal sensor and motor hall sensors are damaged too. Some final questions before deciding what to do: Where do you live? Are you...

Yes, but you have to bear in mind that some LCDs don't give access to parameters that you need to set in the controller. It's best to stick with LCD3 or 4, or any that have all the functions.

It's good that you got something, but it seems a bit low. This 5v is independent of the LCD and battery voltage, so we need to confirm it before going any further. If your bike has a throttle, check between its red and black, otherwise we have to go for the motor connector. Disconnect the motor...

That chart isn't right. It shows linear reduction in voltage with capacity, but the rate of fall in the voltage isn't constant. The battery goes down fast for the first volt, then it steadies off until about 2/3 discharged, then it accelerated downwards. The higher the current, the sooner and...

I'm not mixing up anything. I didn't express any opinions except that it looks like KS is back-tracking. The rest was statements of facts and questions. Do you mean that KS is getting mixed up or the Premier league? Can you imagine what would happen when they all knelt down for BLM in front of...