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OK, connect the battery, motor, LCD and throttle. Don't connect the self-learning wires, PAS or brakes. Make sure that the throttle is connected in the correct sequence - red to red, black to black, and signal to white. Switch on the LCD and check that you have 5v between the red and black...

Is there any way you can thin down the bracket with a Dremmel, angle grinder or file. It'll be strong enough even down do about 2mm. How thick is it?

The current is limited to 25A by the controller!.

I meant code 12 With a KT controller, you only get the max current on level 5. Even on that, you only get it up to about 15 mph after which it ramps down, so you don't spend much time at maximum current during normal riding. Obviously, when riding up a steep hill on level 5, you get maximum...

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A 500w crank-drive is not a good system for what you do unless you've changed. What you need is a workhorse of a motor, which means something like a rear 500w Bafang BPM or CST running at 48v and around 22 amps. You have to buy everything separately because there are no good kits. Total with...

That's because system B is accelerating hard and sytem A is more or less at constant speed. Remember, both are at full throttle, but the 36v system is starting to max out and its current has already been cut down to 9.5A from 25A because of the back emf, while as the 48v one still gets 24.1 amps.

I'm not sure I understand what you're saying. It sounds like you don't want to solder anything. Have you just twisted the wires together to join them, then put heatshrink over the top. if so, that won't last very long. Copper oxidises in air. Eventually the surface contact between the...

Do that again, but this time switch off while the motor is turning forward. Disconnect the self-learning wires and don't connect them again. Now you can switch on again and figure out why you have no power. It'll be something simple, like the throttle connected in the wrong sequence or a brake...

They're is only one rule when it comes to rating a motor: When the motor is run at its designated rating it mustn't overheat. That means that there's nothing to stop a company under-rating their motor. The certification system only checks whether the motor is rated at 250w or below, not how or...

EN15194 isn't a legal requirement. Under our law, overheating isn't mentioned, but it wouldn't surprise me if they could get you on reckless cycling or something like that if your over-powered DIY bike caught fire and did some damage. I can't see a situation where the police come along and stick...

Code 12 is 260 rpm, which is around 19mph cruising speed depending on battery state. If you want something like 22 -23 mph, you'd be better going up to 48v. maybe get a 36v/48v KT controller and LCD, then when your battery needs replacing, upgrade it to 48v. At 36V, 22A is comfortable for the...

It's not the Chinese. Bosch, Panasonic, Shimano, Brose, Ultramotor, Bionx, Heinzmann and a load more are all at it. Who can remember the 250W (might have been 200W) Heinzmann system with a 28A controller at 36V?

I said it "effectively" reduces the voltage, not "actually" reduces the voltage. I chose that word carefully because people argue both ways. With a 50% duty cycle, the average voltage is V/2 and current is constant, or you can argue that the voltage is constant and that the average current is...

I did some test with that when I used to do 40,000 miles a year on motorbikes. I was desperate to reduce the amount of chain adjustment and replacement that I was doing, like adjusting every week and replacing every 10 weeks, so I tried a few diffent methods. I came to the conclusion that...

Interesting fact that not a lot of people know. The Bosch motors are only run with 24v. The electronics somehow cuts down the 36v. If you remove the electronics and use a normal 36v controller, the motor's rotation speed increases by 50%, so instead of an optimal cadence of around 80 rpm, the...

There's no flaw in your thinking. The 48v allows a higher speed and allows you to run with less current for the same power output. If you supply the same current to each motor, the 48v one will make more torque and power. If you select settings that make voltage x current the same, then they...

It's very complicated, but can be explained in simple terms. When you use 75% throttle, the controller reduces the power with its PWM, which effectively reduces the voltage supplied to the motor, so at 75% throttle, the effective voltage might be reduced from 48v to 36v, so the motor behaves...

They already do that. It's been going on for 10 years or more. The same motors can be stamped 180w, 250w or 350w depending on where they're sold. There have been many identical motors, but with different software in for different motors. Just consider this. When Bosch started, they stated that...