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There have been a few instances with peeps buying the cheap £10 or so prog cables and them not being up to the job of connecting or being able to register changes correctly. The good cables are around the £20 mark.

The example controller I linked to comes with a discreet lcd4 display, it is best to buy the two as a pair to ensure connections are correct if not familiar with buying parts.

That may be so but on a bike the controller asks for more current them a lap top, on a bike the cells sag terribly and the voltage will crash when a load is asked.

If changing controller to go to 36v then the only connection that really matters is the motor one and whether it will be compatible for a standard 9 pin Julet motor connector. I have a spare one in , my parts so will look to see if it marry's up to the your one in pin layout. Your PAS and...

There are no bearings just pins and bushes, an allen screw keeps the pin in place and the bushes are a tight fit, I drove mine out with a metal driver/dowel near the exact gush outer size. To fit the new ones a bit of lube or marg/spread is super slippy and a sharp whack with a good hammer.

You may have to unscrew the two parts of the controller covering so we can see inside better.

It look like you have a std PAS sensor /disc set up so that can stay, one would just wire up the three wires accordingly in the correct sequence. The wires to the controller one can't fathom out, one must be the motor cable and there is one with 10 wires, 2 off which are cut. Is there a...

At over 11 years old if the batteries are original then they will only be of scrap value as they just won't be able to deliver any suitable current under load.

Is the issue the prog cable ? Some of the cheap ones don't work.

11 spd cassette won't fit on a stsd 8 - 10 spd freehub, the 11 spd is wider so needs a longer freehub body to fit on.

Before you buy a controller we need to see all the controller wiring from the box, we need to know if you have sensored or unsensored motor/controller. The KT will give a better ride feel then your current set up and will give you five nice power levels for a nicer ride feel as they use current...

Example battery/rack. Season E-Bike Pedelec 36V 12.5Ah 462W High Capacity Li-Ion Rechargeable Battery Set With Rear Rack Carrier + Charger: Amazon.co.uk: Sports & Outdoors The only thing with Amazon is that spec details are not always very clear, what we we can see from this one above is...

For the battery you may have to fit a rear rack battery, one could try fitting to the down tube but may interfere with the step thru ? A rear rack with integrated battery and then you can mount the rear basket on top of the rack. Agree the front bag mounting is too high and affects the balance &...

example of a KT controller with neat small display. Tomanbery KT LCD4 Display Screen 15A Durable Anti-rust 36V/48V Lightweight Controller for E-bick: Amazon.co.uk: Sports & Outdoors

The nearest cable to buy without having to bodge one is the 1T2 cable for throttle/display. You won't find a 8 to 5 wire trunk cable afaik, the extra pin outs are for the peripherals used and for the signal wire.

Lishui are notoriously hard to source so you only other route is to buy another maker and display.

Yes it has been done, you need to buy another controller with throttle ability.

Nearly all my cycling is done with a bush hat on my bonce.

The small BMS wires to the battery are sense wires used for balancing when charging. The small Black as you say goes to Battery - or 0v this side of the pack is the even cell count so next connections on this side will be group 2, 4 , 6, 8 & 10 the final + cell. The next wire is the 1st v+ wire...

If you have a Brommy how about a conversion, the good folks at Woosh do a conversion kit and will fit it for you in Southend.