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You don't need to buy a charger and don't no what you mean by a conditioner, unless you are also telling us you want a recommend for a hair product brand. Out of the two Woosh are great value and they have good CS, Halfrauds have been discussed so you makes your choice. Any new bike will come...

Sounds like you need a new keyed switch, have a loose/faulty switch connection or another bad wire connection somewhere. The battery is likely fine and will get you about 10miles if you are lucky.

The price is about right for 5000mah/48v, it's certainly not like one of those very dodgy/fake 48v/15000mah ones that are sold for < $60.

It's a speed controller by the looks of it and I would say is set up for 5 PAS speed levels, each level will have the same current delivery.

Bottom Bracket, if you look at the drop down box you will see the various lengths. 68mm BB are most common but some bikes do use a 73mm. Shimano UN300 Bottom Bracket Bike Cycle Bicycle BB Square Taper Sealed Cartridge | eBay The BB looks overly long on your bike but that depends how close the...

To all purposes looks like squared taper bottom bracket. One of these and a spanner to remove the crank arms. Silverline Crank Removal Tool Square Taper & ISIS Threads Bicycle Tools 241095 5024763120954 | eBay One these to remove the Bottom Bracket. Bike Taper BOTTOM BRACKET REMOVAL TOOL...

20mph runs the battery down quicker so with any ride you have to gauge the power and speed you ride at to manage the range. No use going on a 30 mile ride hammering the battery at 20mph and then finding out by 20 miles it is flat.

Now the battery is charged is the moped working now ?

Caveat emptor latin for buyer beware.

The battery is a 48v one, looks like a lipo. Voltage wise it will have the same top end charge of 54.6v and higher discharge low end of about 45v.

You bought a used working moped, it was probably as described. Caveat Emptor and all that, you made the mistake of not checking the bike out properly before handing money over.

Show us some pics of the items, other wise we can't advise as we don't know what is in use.

Used mid drive bikes like Bosh, Yamaha etc, are just a way of getting rid of the bike before warranty runs out or an older bike with no warranty. In both cases the answer is not cheap should it need a replacement motor or battery.

Before you move the controller in to the open air, test once more so it cuts out and feel how hot the controller gets. If it is untouchable then mosfet thermal cut out will be the issue.

The lcd1 lools like and is marked so a so genuine KT lcd1 it is digital so should be ok. The bike cutting out then as battery appears to be ok could be as Pete say's due to heat and the hills, more so if the hills are climbed at slow speed with max power PAS5 or throttle. I had a similar...

It is possible the LED and controller aren't compatible depends if the LED was analogue or digital also similar looking and model number LED's aren't all the same compatibility wise as it depends on the make brand. Recently someone had an issue with a LED 880 or 890 and bought a replacement, it...

Does the hub motor have a name or any id on it ?

Check the battery discharge with a meter, fully charged you should see 29.4 v for a 24v model or 42v for a 36v model. If the reading is 0v then a fuse will have blown and needs changing, the ign and lcd indicate no power getting thru from the battery.

All my builds use 14g spokes, my first and only bought motor wheel I rebuilt with new spokes as I had issues with the build using 13g ones.

Possible it is damaged coming out of the axle or a rogue cable wired incorrectly. Still a new bike it is warranty/vendor to sort out.