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1. You will be using the gears so 50 nm doesn't mean much really 2. Range - see point 1, the correct gear for the terrain will give you better range especially if you put in some effort 3. I am a year older than you and have been riding a "womens" frame Decathlon Riverside conversion for two...

https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-a-Bike-Repair-Stand/

For the trike I use a rugged plastic Stanley tool box under the frame. Perfect for dropping out the rear wheel and indexing gears etc.

It is called "pedalling harder to keep warm"! Welcome to the brave new world of pedelecing :)

I would say the most significant political move since WW2 was managing to join the EU despite doubts of some of the members...

It has pedals, is a pedelec (25 km/h), can go on cycle paths here (85 cm wide), can park in cycle parking areas not just moped parking areas... The Twizy that suits me the most is the 80 km/h version so it is a car. But the range isn't enough, I need 250 km in a car.

That my friend is a Rohloff chain tensioner required if you don't have horizontal dropouts.

Skin it, gut it and eat it should be compulsory when hunting. It was back in the day...

Requires a garage - check! Secure parking at destination - check! Fine for my commute :) I am part of the target population except for the tons of money bit :( Seriously you need to provide a way to stop kids (of all ages) from getting in to "try the seat" when you are parked. Some of these...

I use Wippermann Connex because I was disappointed by the KMC chain I tried. Coming up to 3000 km I can see it will need changing soonish and as I am going to swap out the rear wheel the cassette will be replaced by a DNP freewheel on the Mxus hub motor.

You need a new insurance company, period! This isn't a question of principle but a question of competence. A UK member will be able to point you to a UK insurance firm that does their job correctly. Here in the EU I had no problem insuring my home built pedelec ("please keep the invoices for...

xiongda ytw-06

You could be right, they have put the motor in the frame and added their own gearbox. Or they were very inspired by it. This (GNG motor) would be ideal on the trike - I only need the motor for climbing and getting from 0 to 25 km/h. Low weight, no cadence issues so no back EMF, cheaper battery...

XF08C with a 17 Amp controller and a wide range cassette will climb that hill and most others. Gearing is important on hub motors too, not just on mid-drives unless you want a moped in which case raw power and huge battery are the answer.

Cheap Decathlon rim. I gave it the full handful unfortunately. Tyre fine. Brake pads fine. Rim buckled beyond repair. Ribs cracked... Think of a rim as a hollow 622 mm disk, stopping power is beyond enormous...

I think he may be a little worried about the safety of his men and has just pulled the fire alarm to get the message through. I'm sure he has tried other more conventional methods first...

One Magura hydraulic rim brakeis strong enough to destroy a wheel if you pull hard enough. From 20+ km/h to 0 km/h in about 60 cm from personal (painful) experience.

I started out like you a couple of years back (or is that 4?) anyway finally I ended up just buying what I could afford. At that time it was a Mxus XF08 freewheel motor (the cassette version was out of stock). There are a few guidelines: - the smaller motors are efficient up to about 17-18...

You are getting 3.7 km/Wh (it must be flat where you live). 612 Wh @ 3.7 Wh/km = 165 km which is slightly over 100 miles.

People might like to know which motor you find the easiest to work on?