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One could look and see if other forks are available to swap out with a disc brake fitting.

Does your new controller display have the extra L settings ?

The cyclotricity uses normal generic battery connection (just two wires) so one can spur another set of wires to supply another battery singularly or in parallel to carry elsewhere on the bike.

The KT dual controllers aren't configured for 52v so that may be where the issue lies. Try the controller with 36 or 48v max to see if things correct them selves.

P1 88 doesn't sound to bad. My original reasoning was I had a similar issue when I swapped my Yose hub wheel over to my AKM128c, I forgot to change P1 and my AKM did exactly the same. 10mph was the max in any PAS and throttle when out on a journey, It took me about 1/2hr in to the ride before I...

Your battery is fine, after each ride leave it at the SOC it ends at unless it is silly low volts like 32v - 34v. If you are ab infrequent user then charge it before the next planned ride tbh little harm in charging it ready 12- 24hrs before next use. I try and leave mine at approx. 38 -38.5v...

The only way of knowing if a cell group hits HVC before any others is to charge as far as poss then open the battery to get all 10 cell group voltages to see if a problem does lay there.

Finding a mount may be tricky, another option is to find a clever dicky who can 3D one.

Buyer pulling the wool if you ask me, he may have bought it 4 years ago but as a used bike. Hope you didn't pay too much for an out dated 10 year old.

Your issue is down to the P1 Parameter being to low, what is it's current value ?

If you have one cell group hitting HVC before the others then the BMS shuts the charge process off, manual balancing is then required if more then a 0.1v out.

Batteries can be drained down to LVC or approx. 32 - 33v. I tend to use a low safe level of about 34v and charge to approx 37/38v when I get home. I doubt you battery will have suffered much if at all, high discharge rates are what usually lessens capacity. Mileage is dependant on power levels...

This one is disc compatible. 1.44kg AKM-75SX 36V250W EBike Front Driving Hub Motor 20/28/32/36 holes [AKM-75SX 36V250W Front Motor] - $99.00 : Zen Cart!, The Art of E-commerce (topbikekit.com)

The charger should show 42v when not connected, some have a voltage pot inside that can be adjusted.

If that case is fixed and the out rotates then as vfr has said one could likely replace the power connection with an XT60 or similar and use an exterior battery. Although only 9a is should output a nom 324w so a useful bit of power, the poor performance may be down to the silly battery or just...

Led lights are just a gimmick they light up and can have nice colours, I only have one battery that does that with a nice shade of Blue. The only true indication of a charge is real time voltage reading.

Show us some pics please. If the battery is internal I can't see an externa one being connected unless there is a battery power outlet that exits the drive wheel.

I use normal quick links.

Most BMS balance slowly in the same way, the fact voltage is low indicates one or maybe two cell groups are out and BMS don't balance very well is far out. It might be best to check all cell groups via the sense connecter to see if that is the case.

Although the electronics of the bike are out of warranty speak with the dealer as often the frame it self may have a 5 or 10 year warranty, if the bike was supplied by 50c then you are out.