Search results

Sorry about, I got mixed up dealing with all the different guys with similar bikes and systems. what says, "Discharge Standard current:10A-13A, Discharge Max current:28A-30A" ? The ones I linked say 25A and 20A continuous. Some MXUS motors don't respond well to over-volting. I can't say for...

Here's one. Search for 36v 500w battery, 750w battery 1000w battery, etc, then check the spec. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/36V-13AH-500W-750W-Downtube-Electric-Bike-Battery-Pack-Bicycle-Charger-USB-Ebike/143429652565?hash=item216512d055:g:MaoAAOSwclhdvPBp Your controller is in the your battery...

I already told him how to do it in post #31. Mr Brocky19, I refer to your thumbs up in post #34. I find that offensive. I'll let him sort out your problems then, and maybe the others will too.

It depends what you want and where you're going to buy the kit from. You can have light weight, long range, nice looking, long life, low cost, smart, etc, but never all from one battery.

Are you saying that there's still a problem with the display after replacing it? If so, that can only be its cable because it works independently from everything else.

When you fit the battery, swing the rack forward so that the battery ends up as close to the seat-post as possible and adjust the height as low as possible. That will make a big difference to the bike's handling. You can feel even a couple of inches difference. The one below is not too bad...

Do you understand the difference between a cassette and freewheel? It's very confusing because people don't use the correct terminology. The difference is the hub. There is a free-wheel hub with the threaded boss and the free-hub, which is a spline. The gears have to match the hub. In the old...

OK, that one's not so bad. There are a load of kits that will work. whichever you choose, make sure it comes with an LCD control panel that gives 5 levels of assist. Also, a throttle is very useful. The ones I'd recommend are the Yose Power kits, which you can get from Ebay or direct from their...

Show us a picture of your bike. There are different versions. The latest ones would be tricky to convert.

Wheel bearings wouldn't sound like they're gone. The only indication is when you can see substantial play in the wheel, i.e. grab the top of the wheel and pull it side to side. Rocking indicates bearing wear. Don't confuse side to side movement on the axle with bearing wear. That happens when...

I would always wire it directly to the battery wires, which gives you more control and less chance of problems.

You buy from China to get the best kit, not the cheapest. You can buy the cheapest kit from China, but it's not the best. The right stuff from China would cost about £600 upwards. It would give you the option of more torque. You still haven't shown a photo of your bike.

I have three of those meters. I know how they work. OP has a 4 wire throttle and he doesn't know which wire is which, so he couldn't use that meter even if his connector would fit, which it doesn't. Please don't interfere with us trying to help this guy. You're just confusing him with irrelevant...

That might be the same one. Bafang have changed all their designations recently.

I think it would be better to use one of these that has a built in buck converter. Wire it direct to your battery with a simple handlebar switch...

Before doing anything, take out the six disc screws and see if the noise goes away.

That's not it. The tiny one is about 1/4 the size of that one. It's designation is H600, and it's about the same size as the Xiongda YT-06, which is shown in this photo (front).

Firstly, the connector isn't properly pushed together. You might want to sort that first. Maybe it'll solve your problem. If it doesn't, set your meter to 200v DC (11 O'clock) stick the black probe up the back of the the bullet connector on the thick black battery wire. Make sure it's making...

You could try a shunt mod then. Take the end-plate off the controller, where hopefully you'll see the shunt grinning at you and begging for a drop of solder. It looks a bit like a thick staple. The idea is to add some solder on one side about 25% of the entire length, which will increase your...

That ebike tester is good for other problems, but it won't be able to help with your one. You must identify the connector at the controller that goes to the throttle. It has 4 wires in it. One is battery level for the battery display (40v), one is 5v to power the throttle, one is ground (0v)...