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It's possible that it's just a slow motor, but 8 mph seems very slow. The way you determine that is to measure the speed of the wheel off the ground at full throttle with a fully-charged battery, then run down the battery to around 34V. If it runs around 10% or more slower, then the motor is...

That's all in relation to CE marking and bringing your product to market. I don't believe that it applies to what you do with your own bike. Thinking about it, if it was a legal requirement to comply with EN15194, surely that would be mentioned on the government website guidelines, but it...

How do you know that the bearing is broken? It's very easy to replace bearings. Show us some photos of your motor if you want to know how.

Hub motors are just so much more user-friendly and reliable than crank-motors.

I already said that I don't believe that it's a legal requirement for your bike to comply with EN15194. If it is, all of us that don't have a certificate of compliance are in trouble. Flecc says that it's been adopted into UK law, but what does that mean? I believe that it has more to do with...

Where?

You can use any motor with the 9-pin connector. AFAIK, all 9-pin connectors are wired with the same phase and hall wire sequence. Some controllers look for a specific connection sequence that isn't standard, though they're not so common these days. In the worst case, you have to adjust the...

Yes I researched that a few years ago. You're referring to Extra Low Voltage (BS 7671:2008), which allows up to 120V DC. There's an overlap with the EU Low Voltage Directive, which is for DC voltages above 75V. None of these things are specific requirements for Ebikes, though if you electrocuted...

I was expecting you to say that you have hub brakes and/or hub gears, which would be logical reasons. Did you consider a 48v Bafang BPM hub-motor? 1. Cheaper 2. You won't need spares 3. Plenty of info online that you will never need 4. Hub-motor is better than CD 5 Cadence or torque sensor...

It should pick the speed up from a sensor inside the motor. It's why the motor has a 9 pin connector instead of 8. Unfortunately, you have moulded connectors so it's difficult to test whether the sensor is working properly. There are settings in the LCD for how and where it gets the speed...

You need to buy the controller and control panel as a pair. The rest is mix and match, but you'll need to adjust some connectors. there are some problems with the 12 magnet pedal sensors, so best to stick with the cheaper, 5, 8 or 10 magnet ones.

I'm not sure that I'd want to add a motor. It's going to take a bit of stopping using the souls of your feet on the road as brakes.

The stepthrough will be a lot more comfy and is less likely to get nicked. You have to see it as a tool, not a fashion accessory. When you've lost a few stone, you will be able to reassess which would be the best tool for the job. Take my advice and swallow your pride. At least you will be happy...

The Woosh Big Bear LST will suit you very well if you don't mind a stepthrough The Big Bear one is really comforta le and should manage 30 miles easily as long as you don't derestrict it.

You're probably going to need those two motors. Personally, I think this 750w motor is a strange choice. How did you come to the conclusion that it's suitable for your needs?

It looks like a Yose kit to me. Regardless of where it came from, kits are modular. You have the controller and LCD, which determine how nice the bike goes, then you have a motor, battery and sensors. The Sparticle kit was just a permutation of those standard parts from standard Chinese...

What does adopting EN15194 mean then? Is it illegal to ride a bike that doesn't have reflectors on the pedals? Is it illegal to ride a bike witnout a side stand? Both are requirements for compliance with EN15194.

Many don't have any solder, others have quite a lot. I'm pretty sure that they do use solder to set the current on some of the older ones.

Bosch warranty is 80% capacity for two years.

If it still won't work, connect only the motor (all 8 wires), battery and LCD. switch on with the self-learning wires disconnected, then measure the voltage between the thin red and black wires in the white block connector that goes to the motor. You should see something like 4.3 to 5 volts...