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What's the output voltage of the charger - written on the label? Which bike is the battery used on? How much capacity did the original have? Another possibility is NiCad or NiMH for the original, but without details, all we can do is guess. Time to kick yourself Kirstin. I'll want to see the...

The plate comes off much easier if you warm up the hub between the spokes until it's around too hot to touch.

Those connectors often give trouble. If the worst comes to the worst, you can chuck them and use any connector, like a Deans or XT60, then seal the opening in the controller box. Leave about 200mm of wire, which will tuck into the battery when you clip it on. No water will go in through the hole...

Those two screws have nuts on the back, so you have to remove the whole receiver from your bike to undo them. all they do is hold the controller to the aluminium mounting strip. It's possible that one of them has been lengthened and another rivnut added to the frame to use it as a third fixing...

It seems to be a system that takes power from any arrangement of cells in parallel to drive a motor directly with three phase power. I reckon efficiency could be quite good because a lot of conventional losses are eliminated, though some new ones are brought in. The main advantage would be...

It's impossible to say without more details.

Unfortunately, you can't test either yourself. Both devices use hand-shaking protocols before they'll give power. Only a Bosch shop can diagnose them unless you have a spare battery and charger to swap for testing. It might be an idea to say where you are if you want help.

It's a normal throttle that works independently from and takes precedence over the pedal sensor when you twist it.

Maybe to you, but not to the rest of us.

That DIY guide is a bit dodgy because there's no cell balancing, which could cause the battery to catch fire when charging. He should have used a 2S balance connector instead of the one he used so that he could add the cell-tap between the cells and a 2S lipo charger to balance them. In fact, it...

Not home, all the way to the line! There is no restraint on the wires coming out of the controller, so if you pull them too hard during installation, it's possible to pull any connector half out or pull a pin out of the connector. I had to repair two bikes that had that fault. When you check...

A normal Di2 doesn't work very well with a crank motor because of the tension on the chain and the fast shifting. Any gear sensor that you have will be over-ridden because there is no shifter or cable to sense. It looks like there's a special Di2 for ebike motors that integrates with the control...

I was wondering if the 30 amps on your present BMS is a bit marginal for the BBSHD. I'd want more headroom than that. It could be cutting out due to over-current or over-heating. If you get the new BMS, you have to check your sense wire connector carefully. The Ebay one has pins B1 to B14 (14...

The 250w motor is better than the 500w one. It's about equivalent to the kits that were around 10 years ago, which some of us started with and were happy with at the time. If you're strapped for cash, they are an adequate solution to getting your bike electrified, and they should give you years...

The switch makes a simple bridge between the white wires. Unplug it and test the connector with a meter to see if it is open or closed with the switch in the on position. If open when on, you can leave it off for testing. If closed, you have to make a bridge between the white wires to bipass the...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/14S-BMS-58-8V-Li-ion-battery-with-Charge-port-protection-and-Switch-function-40A/193110905051?hash=item2cf64e90db:g:dcMAAOSwZfRdg0Dg

The red wire should be soldered to that pad. I'm not sure what it does. it might be to power the USB and indicator lights, or maybe the whole board.. You should charge the battery right up to do any testing. It should be over 40v. When you get it to 40v+ and it still doesn't work, switch it on...

Take the screws off the other end and the three along the side, then slide out the pcb and show us some clear photos. I've shown you the two types of shunt. It'll have one or the other. They're normally near where the black battery wire is soldered.

Check that your motor connector is pushed in all the way to the marked line.

It'll be absolutely fine at 18 amps.