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40.5v isn't high enough. If that's as high as it goes, it sounds like you have cell problems in it.

If it's the same as a Cyclamatic, which it looks like it is, the shunt is under the big capacitor on it's left side behind that red wire. You have to take the pcb out, which means all the other seven screws.

Put some silicone grease in them to make them waterproof.

I always put silicone grease in them that seems to do the job.

Those connectors were always troublesome for some reason. Somebody made a small batch of much more robust replacement connectors for Oxydrive kits, but they soon ran out. Those batteries are still used on various Das Kit bikes. I guess that they must have changed something by now, but one weird...

It's basically pure fiction, stupidity and comedy, just like Laurel and Hardy, except without the stunts. At least there's no pretence about that, unlike the lying fake news and documentaries that they put on the TV these days. John sweeney of Panarama has just been sacked after being exposed...

Had you been riding it in the rain or on wet roads?

That's right. i was thinking in two dimensions instead of three.

I think there's enough anecdotal evidence to say that Chinese hub-motor systems are generally more reliable than the European crank-motor systems. I would say The Europeans edge ahead on crank-motor systems, but it's difficult to say because a lot of people get their European ones fixed under...

You still haven't made it clear how it packed up. Did it stop while you were riding it? A motor can't randomly kill itself, especially when parked up overnight. Something must have killed it. When we know what killed it, we can take a good guess at what's wrong with it. Did you drop the bike...

There should be two black wires on that output pad, one for the charger and one for the main power. It looks like you changed something there.

Their task for next week is for each team to design an electric bike. That will be either a good laugh or it'll make you cry. They showed a very quick clip this week. I'm guessing that there were a lot of constraints on their design because it looked like they used Bosch systems and probably...

It depends on what they wanted to do with it. If they wanted to use it as a boat anchor, I'd recommend a Kalkhoff Impulse.

That looks very similar to a Cyclamatic Power plus, but with a lead battery instead of Lithium. the battery could easily be converted to lithium. I've done a couple of similar ones myself. The controller rating of 12A is very low. You can get a lot more torque out of the motor by a simple...

Take your pick. It might be an idea to get a plug as well as a socket in case the middle pin doesn't fit: https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=5.5mm+dc+jack+socket&_sacat=0

Different versions of the LCD have different software in them, and they adjust the max current in different ways through C5 values 0 to 10. Some allow from -5A to +5A from the label current, others have a multiplyer (or divider). You should try values 0 and 10 to see what yours does before...

Can you describe the fault with your motor. Does it not run at all? Does it make a whirring noise, click or nothing at all? How did it fail? Did it pack up while going up a steep hill, when you left it overnight, when you went over a bump or what?

It needs to be eliminated as a cause, but i'd be surprised if this is your problem. If it turns out to be a faulty switch, I'd be inclined to join the wires and leave it on all the time. If you want to leave your bike unused for a long time, you can always remove the battery. When the battery is...

Isn't it a KT controller? You can normally shift the current up and down a bit in the software.

I keep telling you that you're reading too much rubbish on the internet instead of listening to people that actually deal with these things on a daily basis for over a decade. Even our forum member Cwah wasn't able to destroy the gears on his tiny high-speed 36v Q100 when he ran it at 48v with...