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That's not right. It's putting them in series, which will push the battery voltage higher than the charge voltage, so no charging can happen. If it's a 12V charge controller, it'll be set to around 14.4v, so only one battery in series. The rest have to go in parallel.

Do you fold it frequently? If so, how do you deal with it? How many cells in your battery?

Here's what I'd do. After charging each one, leave it for half an hour, then measure the voltage. Any that remain at 12.6v or above are OK to put in parallel. The number of batteries in parallel has no affect on the panel or charge controller. I agree about the LED lights, they use a fraction...

I think you'll find that battery and the ones in the post above yours too big and heavy for a Brompton. Personally, I wouldn't go any higher than 30 cells (1.5kg). 30 cells can get you a good 9Ah, which would take you at least 30 miles of moderately hilly riding without sweating. The guy who...

Yes, but when I gave you an answer, you didn't like it, and you argued against it. It sounds like you've got a better technique than me and easier rides, and there were no other negative points in the replies, so try it and see if you're right.

You can put all your theory to test then. When you've done it, come back and tell us how well it worked. We pioneers have to risk our money for the good of everyone. My ebike testing and experimentation bill is now standing somewhere around £22,000, so about time others shared the burden.

Better still, keep the electronics in there. Just chuck the motor and primary drive, then pick up the motor hall and phase wires and run them to a hub motor. That way, the battery, charger , LCD and torque sensor can still be used. The only flaw is that it's often the bearings that go, and if...

See post#3

Open the battery and peal back any heatshrink or tape to get full access to the BMS, then unplug the power wires and pull out all the connectors. Purchase a Chinese BMS and solder on the charge and power wires. The connector for the 10 sense wires most likely won't fit, so you'll have to cut it...

Which display are you using?. I doubt that it'll work with your Suntour one. Self-learning is a controller function independent from the display.

But some people do have steep hills. Don't be so self-centred. It's nice to spout theory, but when you try it up a steep hill in a real situation, you'll see the problem.

Ask on Endless-sphere if you don't get an answer here.

When you have horiz drop-outs, the massive torque from the motor can pull the wheel forward even when the nuts are done up tight. Have you got axle restraints or adjusters? If not, it might be worth bringing the wheel fully forward and using a tensioner.

You don't need a bag for the battery. It's fully waterproof. Just fit a bottle holder on the handlebars or wherever you want it. If you're going to use a bag, a bare cell-pack with BMS will be a lot cheaper.

Try Halfords. They'll have one if there is one. What do you want to know?

II just said in the previous post that you can't use the original battery without a substantial modification (replacement BMS).

You can have a look, but I'd be surprised if you find anything. The throttle wire would go to an extra pin on the main cable connector so that it could use the 1 into 4 cable. It wouldn't make sense for them to run a separate cable for a throttle. It might have the software in it and might...

The controller I mentioned is a lot more sophisticated the the Powabyke Salisbury one- and much better!

It's not about going fast or slow. It's about stalling when you go up a steep hill.

Those SA gearboxes require you to stop pedalling to change gear. Derailleur would be better.