Search results

You need additional connections between the cells in each group to put them in parallel. That's not going to be easy with that configuration. I think I'd go with mainly 4 in a diamond and 4 flat, which will be easier to connect in each group and leave two series connections from each group to...

I can't hear anything at all in your video. It's probably best to start a new thread for your problem to get the attention you need to solve it.

Nearly all LCDs have this configuration: Red = battery voltage Black = ground Blue (occasionally pink or orange = switched battery voltage to power the controller Green , yellow or white = Tx and Rx You can check the functions of each wire except Tx and Rx with a meter. You must be sure which...

I can't see any way the throttle can do that. Are you OK with dismantling/repairing electronics? Your problem is most likely in the motor controller, but could be the battery. Have you got a meter to measure the actual battery voltage? Which battery do you have? Is it lithium or SLA?

You can make a plywood box to replace that sign. All you need is 3mm ply sheet and some 9mm or 10mm x 75mm softwood. Cut a piece of ply the same shape as your sign, glue the sodtwood edge to the edge of the plywood, then screw the other side to the other edge of the softwood, so one side is...

For riding on normal roads, you don't need anything too special. Any well-known brand of hydraulic disk brakes will be fine. Everybody has their favourites, but I haven't noticed much difference between them. Juicy, Tektro, Shimano, Avid, Magura, etc. OP has BB7 cable disc brakes. They're not a...

The red and black wires that go to the yellow on the throttle are battery voltage for the battery voltage indicator LEDs on the throttle. The pedal sensor takes its 5v from the grey wire (might be white), which is spliced off the throttle's 5v for some reason, which is unusual. I think it's...

You test an measure to find your problems, then you can see how to solve them.

The battery weight on the handlebars has a profound effect on a bike's handling. I wouldn't put a battery there unless there was no alternative.

If the LED control panel is lifeless, it means that it's not connected to the battery. Even when completely faulty, it would normally flash when you press the power button. If you look at its connector/s, there are 4 wires, normally red blue, black and green. Sometimes the blue is orange or...

You need to test to find out why it won't work, otherwise you can end up replacing things and not solving the problem. Are the hall sensors switching? It could be that you popped a MOSFET in the controller when the hall didn't work.

Sorry, I wasn't thinking straight. You need the right polarity magnet passing the sensor in the correct direction, so the only way to get it to work is to remove the sensor from its bracket, re-drill the holes and mount it inverted. That will make it work in the opposite direction.

White is the speed signal. All you have to do is tell your controller to use it - set P2=1. If the controller doesn't receive a signal from that wire, it'll default to the motor hall sensors for the speed signal where P1 takes effect, so you should check that the 5v on the white wire is in fact...

No. Mark all the magnets, then flip all of them individually.

OK, so it's the brushed motor on the bracket. It could be that your motor is burnt out. With the wheel off the ground, connect a car battery charger to the two motor wires. It should spin happily. If you only get sparks and no motion, you need a new motor. Don't leave the charger connected if...

It seems that a lot of people are getting problems with Yamaha batteries, which are very expensive to replace and the cheap options to repair or replace also seem to give problems. Bosch batteries are cheaper and there are possibilities to repair them.

Earlier, you said your motor has 8 wires, so no white speed sensor wire. Did you buy the external speed sensor like I suggested? If not, the speed read-out will always be internal motor speed, not bike speed.

The motor is completely standard, so you can use any controller you want. I'd use a KT 15 or 17 amp sine wave one from PSWPower. If you have the long motor cable, you can solder the wires directly to the ones on the controller, otherwise, you'll need to buy an extension cable and solder it in...

Let's try again. Does it drive the wheel through a short chain or is it in the centre of the wheel and includes the axle? Which of the two?

I've converted both. You've summed it up pretty well. The problem with the Brompton is to get the wires around the folding points. Wires don't like to be frequently bent in different directions. It's six and half a dozen which one you convert. Rather than fold them completely, I'd just drop the...