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I only charge above 80% before a long ride otherwise the battery remains at the depleted charge, if not using a battery for some time I aim to keep between 50 - 80% with the occasional check every now and then. For local use my most used ebike has the battery charged once every 30 - 40 miles...

Analogue 4 wire 810 model. One needs the wire sequence to be the same. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Electric-Bicycle-810-LED-Display-With-4-Wire-Cable-Control-Panel-Black-/133430886072?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10

4 wires makes it an analogue panel so one should be able to use any 3 speed 4 wire similar panel, unlike 5 wire digital models it doesn't rely on Rx/Tx comm's to ensure compatibility.

Latest recommendations/house of commons transport commission is to consider legalising e scooters for road use with a ban on pavement riding. https://publications.parliament.uk/pa/cm5801/cmselect/cmtrans/255/25502.htm Some views are that with so many now using these scooter in towns/cities...

Good work using a jumper to make a fix, make sure the jumper though is secure. Glue it down if poss and then use a bit of silicone for a permanent job.

Your wife needs a simple cadence pedal sensor bike with a throttle not TS drive bike. With the cadence type sensor she only needs to ghost pedal to get the power with the TS she has to exert good energy for the system to give more power.

The Bafang is a Higo connector and the Lishui probably a Julet connector even if the M/F connectors were correct they would not work as the wire sequence is different. Tell us the wire colours, generally 5v/Red goes to Red or Brown, Gnd / Black goes to Black or if no Black then Yellow and...

As I mentioned and vfr has said you have to order a compatible LCD for it to work, the lcd3 is the best option though the tiny LCD4 is also an option but requires more button pressing to see different screen data. The controller and lcds although not Canbus do use comm's protocols between each...

Max tyre width is governed by D/O size and the bridge width to fit wider guards.

E1 is comms error. This covers a multitude of possible faults, cable damage may be the first place to look esp in the area where the bike fell/contacted the ground. The wire loom between controller and display may be a starting point to continuity check each wire /pin contact.

I forgot it is the front non electric wheel damaged so just a swap over.

622 x 19 rim is ideal double wall just as Peter has said. I often use BDP for sourcing parts esp rims, I like the cyan blue Ryde 622 x 19 rims and have then on two of my bikes. Something different then Silver or Black. One will also have to likely buy new spokes unless the ERD is the same.

For the lcd speed reading one can buy a simply 3 wire speed sensor from the same supplier, attach the sensor to the rear stay and the magnet to the spoke. The controller has a separate connector for the external speed sensor.

The speed limit is usually altered via the display, but it will depend on the system in use.

One is a mid motor so powers through the drive train, the other is a hub drive so powers direct from the wheel. The latter will wear the drive train parts less. Both are quite lightweight 40nm at the wheel direct will have more torque then the indirect mid motor. Ideally one needs to try both...

Likely candidate but until the OP shows us what he/she has got we will all be left guessing as per usual.

< £73.50 delivered. KT 22a controller and lcd, perfect for your set up. Wiring should be easy to marry up. This is for a sensored hub like yours, if 22a is too much current one can simply reduce it by making changes via the display. Battery and phase have push fit bullets, the white sensor...

We can show you where and what to buy. It's unclear if you have a speed sensor, to tell look at the white connector block with the thin wires. If you have speed sensor inside the hub there will be a white wire on both parts of the connector if not look as the rear wheel to see if a spoke magnet...

If changing controllers from one make to another they aren't always plug and play. The battery connections are basic Red to Red & Black to Black often bullets. The three phase wires are also easy and likewise couloir to colour and bullets. The white connector with 5 or 6 thinner wires is also a...

The Yose kits have changed a bit form a couple of years ago, the hub was changed to a slower wound motor for better torque and the KT current control electronics changed to Lishui speed control. The former type gives a better relaxed ride feel.