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We need to know what/which kit and some nice clear pics. We have no or very little detail to go by, except for an unconnected wire !!!

V brakes are ok if one isn't expecting to see silly road speeds, up to the assist level of 15.5mph they should be ok. A kit is likely to add 6- 7kg of weight to the bike , as long as they are adjusted and stop the bike well then sensible use will be ok.

The E5000 is the baby of the Steps family about 40nm of torque and a match for the Nexus/Alfine 8 hub gears. One may find it a bit low on power and under whelming for hills.

Firstly it is under warranty if shop bought then take it to be looked at, if mail order/internet bought it may be difficult returning. Despite the bike, charger or battery saying it is 100%, one should confirm battery voltage first with a simple reading via a meter. Any interruption will...

Yes you would need a matching controller as well. Your existing controller is 22 max so you can fit a 22a model to have the power of the current one. Most controllers only allow about 15a but if you buy a KT model and lcd3 for about £70 you can vary the current levels down if you buy a 22/25a...

Which bike did you return ?

Yes the battery is knackered, the old cells if 18650 type can be removed carefully and re- utilised in a torch that uses them.

One can likely buy a generic battery to use, a pic will give us more of an idea of the battery you have. If it is the folding bike then the battery looks to be a small bespoke type one that can be re -celled or if a non folding bike looks like a Silver fish battery will fit. If the latter about...

The joy of using clipless platforms is that one can ride with either with clipless or normal footwear. With added platform the pedal is always upside down for normal shoes so one has to rotate them 180 degrees each time you remove your foot.

Dual watt controllers are custom programmed so one needs to get one from the same vendor .

Cyclotricity stuff is dual power, illegal. Although they use KT stuff it is customised so generic KT controllers/ lcd's don't work. One is then tied to their prices.

Internal design will be chalk and cheese, as is the Bafang BBS & Max drive.

The White thin wire is for the speed sensor. One has little choice but to open the hub, the short may be internal however implausible a broken wire may have wiped the sensors out. The crux is they don't switch so are faulty.

I doubt if one can simply swap out in to any other frame as the housing will be different. Unlike a BB crankk drive which uses a std English type in the main. Pretty sure none of the various OEM bespoke housings are compatible.

The TSDZ3 akin to all other OEM bikes needing a bespoke frame housing for fitting it. http://www.pswpower.com/ven.php?cargo.2015-cp-2h3x

If you feel the seal is poor then one could try some gasket seal to form an impervious seal. Is the hub screwed together as two parts or does one side have a face plate screwed side fixing ?

WIth flat terrain and no hills if towing a trailer, tbh honest any method of motor will be ok. If using a child seat/ carry on the bike then opt for the hub over a mid drive for your needs. One needs to decide on which child carrying method is to be used, set the bike up first for the method...

No photo/pic to view Rick ? And welcome to the site an interesting option for others to try.

Change the battery in the testing meter and check hall voltages again, this time only hand turning the wheel backwards. Testing Gnd to the three sensor wires of Yellow ,Green & Blue. I agree that all three failing is unlikely but some thing is a miss with the halls whether in correct testing or...

It will take you to 25k/mh and suspect it uses a speed controller, low 8mph, med about 12mph and high 15.5mph. One would think there may be a controller or display issue. If as you say it is new take it back to the vendor and get it fixed under warranty or swap for another bike working correctly.