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Your forks are probably on the limit with the motor you already have. I think a BPM in them running with high current is going to end in tears. If you want a front BPM, take my advice and find some used steel forks on ebay...

Short answer is no. Does she already have an ebike? If so, why do you want o change? Maybe there are other solutions.

If you don't get a reply, ring Dale at SYEBC.

Look in that compartment under the battery. That's where the connectors are. I can't remember what you have to do, but it must be pretty straight forward otherwise I'd probably have remembered how to do it.

Forget that one. Where will you get a spare controller from when it goes wrong, which I can imagine won't be long after you press the buy button. Pedalease aren't noted for good customer service, which is going to compound any problems. I only heard of one guy with that kit. His went wrong...

Don't forget that a high-torque motor like those will break you front forks pretty quickly unless they're steel.

There's absolutely no advantage to a front motor for a bike with derailleur gears, but there are plenty of disadvantages. Yes, it can be done if you do it right, but why would you want to?

I prefer the conventional connectors for two reasons. Firstly, it's much easier to figure out what's wrong when your system doesn't work because you can test all the voltages on them, but if you have the moulded ones, it's really tricky. Secondly, the neatness thing doesn't really work with the...

What forks is it in? How many torque arms do you have on it?

Expensive, heavy and unnecessary. Cyclotricity are heavy, not efficient at low speed and need a powerful battery.

If you don't like the idea of filing drop-outs, you can forget about a front-motor kit. I've never found one that can be installed without filing. You could always be lucky with a particular set of forks. The motor axles are exactly 10mm, so you can test with a 10mm block, but even if it goes...

The SWH2 is not a powerful motor like the SWX02. It's only 122mm diameter instead of 158mm. the Q100s and Q128s used to have a peal-off label, which solved ecverything, since the motors are the same size or smaller than any of the regular 250W ones, but since BMSB switched to genuine Aikema...

I had to repair a bike that had a similar problem, where there had been a panel that was screwed to the inside of the mudguard to create the channel for the wire, but it had come unscrewed, got jammed between the mudguard and tyre, which caused it to cut the wire. I modified it by running the...

That looks normal enough, but it doesn't really test the bearings. You should turn the pedal by hand with a bit of load on the crank to feel for any bearing roughness.

It might help if you tell us what you have!

That's to release the 25km/h speed limit. What exactly are the 5 LEDs on the throttle for? What makes them light up or go out?

That's the problem when people don't tell us what they have.

Still doesn't work. Use Youtube!

Let's summarise that. there are four things that affect the power: Motor, xontroller BMS, battery cell-pack. You start with a motor that can handle the power you want. You get a controller that is rated for the power you want to run the motor at. You get a battery that can provide the maximum...

You can ormally go to 30% extra power by soldering 30% of the shunt without problems as long as you have a reasonable battery. After doing the mod, you should check to see how warm the controller gets. If you get any problems with heat, you can always go back by filing or crimping the shunt...