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can you show us a photo of what your problem is. I can't understand at all what you're saying. The tyre doesn't care what sort of valve you have, so I don't see how that can be a problem. Did you install a rim tape? Did you use an inner tube? Have you got the alloy wheel or spoked one?

What's so difficult. It took me less than a minute to find these. The dark visors are held on with magnets, so when you don't want to use the visor, you invert them so that they sit flush on the front upper part of the helmet out of the way...

There's always a red light on those battery indicators. The LEDs go out one by one as the battery discharges to leave just the red one. You must have touched your probes together while they were in the battery connector to get a short like that. You can never trust battery displays on the LCD...

I would have thought that if the clutch was faulty and randomly engaging, you'd get occasional loud mechanical noises, like clacks or clacking, when it was half engaged. Did you inspect behind the chain-wheel and did you unclip the chain to test the bearings?

No, that's not right. Firstly, the motor turns only when there's pressure on the pedals. Secondly, if you switch off the power, you can pedal the bike normally without turning the motor. On the CX motor, it still disengages, but when you pedal, you have to still be engaged with the secondary...

Inside the controller compartment, the battery wires (red and black) come from the roof of the compartment to two bullet connectors, then they carry on to the controller. Depending on what type of bullet connectors, you can sometimes get your probes inside the protective sleeves, while they...

Are you saying that you think the 48v is exactly the same as the 36v one, therefore you can convert the 36V one? I think that it's highly likely that the two versions of the motor have different windings, otherwise the 36v one would only be suitable for people with a low cadence and the 48V for...

There's a ratchet/ clutch between the pedals and the motor so the motor doesn't turn when you pedal on your own. The only possibility is that it's faulty and somehow keeps re-engaging when it shouldn't, but I don't think there's much chance of that, though not impossible. I think more likely is...

If you've measured correctly, you've blown all three high side MOSFETs. That makes a dead short across your battery wires, so, the moment you switch on, the high current causes the battery to temporarily switch off. Did you do the voltage test above? That will confirm it.

If it's a wireless one, they don't normally work on electric bikes because of the interference from the motor commutation.

Over-volting a crank-drive bike is not such a good idea, like it is with a hub-motor because the extra voltage makes the crank spin faster. that brings two problems. Firstly, your feet can't keep up in the low gears. secondly, it'll run inefficiently when you use a higher gear so that you can...

What makes you think that the battery is only half charged? did you measure the voltage?

Did you check the MOSFETs?

It must go all the way to the line. You can blow your controller if you attempt to use it not all the way.

The same applies to any 48v system. I don't know why people are still using 36v. 48v is better in all respects. It's more efficient, you can run with less current, so longer battery life and less noise, you can get more power and you can get more torque. The only argument for 36v is when you...

Jeez, you're so awkward. It goes in a bottle holder, which is much more convenient than Velcro. If you want Velcro straps, get one of those bottle holders that attach with Velcro straps and stick it in that and mount it wherever you want. When you take this tool-holder out of the bottle holder...

The battery wire goes into the LCD carrying the battery voltage. A line is taken off through a voltage divider that cuts it down to around 2.5v (i.e. divided by 20) directly to the CPU. The CPU uses that to calculate the battery voltage using an A to D converter. It can then use that info to...

Disconnect the two battery wires from the controller and the three thick motor wires (Blue, yellow and green. Set the meter to orange 60K Ohms scale and put one probe on the black thick wire on the controller and the other onto the green one. Note the reading (probably around 7K). Repeat for...

You don't need a display or control panel if you're only going to use a throttle. I don't understand what you're saying about the batteries. Lead batteries are rubbish for capacity. Don't forget that you can only use half the capacity, so you need double the amp-hours compared with lithium...

If you want a toolholder, what about one of those plastic bottle things like I use. they only cost a couple of quid if you look around...