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There are no moving parts inside the motor. The stator is stationary and fixed to the axle. The rotor is attached to the hub and it's turned directly by the magnetism of the stator. The hub turns on the wheel bearings like any hub. I can understand a tapping of clicking noise from something like...

There's no such thing as a long range motor, though you can get long range batteries and long range riders.

That battery is only rated at 15 amps and it has a maximum continuous discharge of 20 amps.

Oxydrive kits use standard components, so it would be a lot cheaper to sort out what's wrong with it than replace it. The DasKit battery had problems with the contacts burning. Have a look in yours. They can be fixed for less than £1.

Controllers don't normally cut out. They're electronic, so they work or they don't. They can't half work. Perhaps if you describe your problem, we can help you sort it out.

If it runs up to max speed with the wheel off the ground, it should be OK.

£150 with free shipping. All you need to do is splice a connector into the original battery output wires that go to the controller. Charge it separately and only connect when both batteries are fully charged. £400 saving is a massive incentive! Available now too...

Look out for the disc slipping in the future. Those big magnet discs are the worst for slipping without thinning them down so that they have less purchase on the shaft. If the pedal assist goes intermittent, you'll now know why. Hopefully, it won't happen, but if it does, get the V12 sensor...

The battery is fully charged at 42.0V. If it only goes as high as 39.5v, it has a serious issue that needs sorting.

He's got no 5v. See other thread.

You can build a much lighter bike of around 14kg if you start with a light weight road bike. You can get a reasonable one for around £200, then fit a Q100 rear hub motor from BMSbattery, a 15 amp controller from PSWPower and a 20 cell bottle battery from Aliexpress. Change the handlebars to...

Kits with integrated controllers and sealed connectors are very difficult to diagnose where problems come from.

When there is 1.6v instead of 5V, it is because: 1. There is a short circuit on the 5v somewhere. Disconnect everything from the controller (throttle, pedal sensor, brakes and anything else) then measure again to see if you get 5v. 2. The 5V regulator in the controller is burnt. that happens...

Send me a personal message nearer the time if you're still stuck then because I'll forget.

Different frames have different arrangements. Only you can tell us how yours is.

Good luck. keep us informed. If it doesn't work, but you do get a reaction from the motor when you move the magnet disc over the sensor, remove every other magnet, so that there are only 6.

I need to know how many pins in the motor power connector, not how many wires, so that I can help you with an alternative way to get the motor working.

It looks like one, but that's not its function because it connects to the motor.

It really is easy. All you need is a screwdriver and a multi-meter. Everything that you don't know seems difficult, but when you know how, it's simple. We can tell you how, then you learn something.

Please give more details on the kit you have. A link to the listing is best.