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£200 plus to fit a kit, glad you saw better and did it yourself. As vfr has mentioned some tuning can be done but you won't know the settings until a cable is bought and the free software programme is downloaded to your PC. Wholeale parameter changes can do more harm then damage so a mentioned...

Around the merry go round nearly every one goes . The speed limit is set, it is practically a world wide max excepted assistance speed for powered cycles Your average cyclist barely hits 15.5mph barring the sport riders on an unpowered bike. Having different limits for pedelecs is having a...

Those Voilamart kits usually have speed controllers so the power/current can't be regulated, it will give max current all the time in any assist. The Bafang will likely use a current control controller so will only have max power/current in the top assist level, lower assist levels will give...

Is it a grinding noise or a an electrical growl that could be mistaken for grinding ? Electrical growling is down to phase or hall sensor connections, so double check these connections to the internal controller.

Inboard on the LHS axle there is a sealed bearing with a nut, check it isn't too tight and pinching the bearing, other wise make sure there are washers inboard and that the drop outs are free of the motor at the axles.

Yep it was a fad, all kids/teens were doing so at the time.

The rear light is excellent when it is dull/dark. The 100 lux front I got was with the horn feature as well, so I use a Wuxing handle bar light/horn switch.

You probably should have given the coloured lcd 8 a miss and gone with the lcd3 it is a better no nonsense display. C2/0 is always the default setting.

I remember as teens in the late 70's we used to ride with our drop bars up turned with the brakes inverted.

Continuity test first Mike, just to confirm a continuity wire test is the two far extremes of the wire ends. In your case as you have no motor wire connection about 10/12" away, you will have to probe the same coloured wire at the controller via it's connector. One needs to know that all 8...

As the hub spun out of the drop outs have you tested the controller mosfets as a wire short may have blown one of them.

Yes you can test continuity direct from the pcb contact and the wiring to the controller connector/s. Also test the three thicker phase wires Blue, Green & Yellow, access to the phase ends isn't possible as they disappear in to the windings. To get a contact simply cut the out sheaf and poke a...

This one is £10 from Shenzhen/ China...

Ok that's a very common 5.5mm dc connector. This the type you need, it is 2a so will charge your battery in 4.5hrs from empty. It is for 36v nominal battery with a 42v max charge voltage...

Don't buy this charger because it is quite expensive and you should be able to get one for half the price with the correct charge connector you need. Open the link though and look at all the various charge connectors so you know which type you need and it's name to make looking for the correct...

It doesn't matter what the battery capacity is, a typical 2a charger will charge a 9ah battery in approx. 4.5hrs when empty. A 15ah battery would take 7.5hrs. Show us a pic of your battery charge inlet so we can see what you need.

You can use any 36v generic charger as long as the charge connector is the same.

My 700c Norco with the Big Bear kit fitted would top out at 19mph and was plenty pokey enough on hills, the only con I could find really was some steering torque affect.

The hub is new and will be tight, once it has been run in a bit it should freewheel quite well. My rear Bafang CST ( 7k odd miles) freely spins a good few dozen times, so check for brake rub or mudguard rub.

For wired lights this type 100 lux I find excellent, the beam not overly wide but does light up your path nicely / very well, they are supposedly stvzo compliant. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32856825116.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.650a2e0e2hgloR