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The easy fixing point to anchor a T/A would be to drill a hole in it to line up with M/G stay anchor point with the M5 Allen bolt above in the pic.

Sy is Shengyi hub.

TL can be used on or off road, just means lower psi can be ran without causing tube pinch's and self sealing usually.

What bike was it ? The three wire ones are usually easy to get working as long as the sequence is wired correctly so Gnd - Gnd , 5v - 5v and sig - sig. You can't always go by colour so post up pics of the controller throttle wires and the throttle wires. As vfr has mentioned in the past the one...

Not really you don't have to remove the rear wheel if you set up for tube less otherwise repair the tube by just removing the tyre on one side or fit a Gaadi tube.

I use the Gaadi permanently in my Norco 700c rear wheel and my Boardman 700c tourer, it is good enough for a fit and forget solution until you get a flat. They don't prevent them but makes changing easier without removing the wheel. My Boardman is used on rough tracks, N & S Downs on any off...

A few months ago we tried to help someone with a Prorider and replacing the Ananda, for what ever reason the Dapu hub just didn't like the KT controller and the poster had a devil of a time trying to get it to run. I think he got there in the end but not 100% running to his liking. He also...

Hub motors use different winding speeds some are wound for lower rpm so ideal for climbing but not overly fast on the open road, other are fast wound for speed on the open road but very inefficient on steep inclines. It is horses for courses so you have to buy the right rpm hub motor to suit...

You won't find one they are usually OEM only. There was one on ebay but it was for different bike.

Before I removed the wiggly Suntour from my commute /town bike my 20a controller lived in an under seat bag.

A KT ? There is a UK seller you can try. Torque tech.co.uk

Mid drives prefer to be span quite fast on inclines, a hub motor doesn't care too much as you can simply ramp up the assist level/current level. A 201 rpm hub motor or a 185 rpm one is ideal for inclines and slower speed.

One should have asked ........

The Swizzbee rear wheel removal can be a pain so I use a Gaadi tube and Marathon tyres. The rear axle nuts have to be loctited on other wise it flies off due to the way the Sram hub with differential works.

The AKM 128c is quiet as well, my preferred hub motor and is fitted to my 700c touring bike. It can take 25a @36 or 48v for hill climbing.

Likely an easy fix replacing the throttle. Show us a pic of the throttle, the wiring will simply disconnect form the controller which you should be able to manage.

It will if she doesn't use the assistance ;) . Yes at 10 stone it will give many miles of range.

Kirstin's Swizzbee in now my Swizzbee ( seen here close to the'Old Fort' when I took it back to Shoreham three years ago) this one now has a stable mate as I bagged another one. The Achilles heel of the Swizzbee is it is obsolete now along with the electronics/brushed motor and the aweful 9sp...

The central rotating part with plastic grippy teeth grab hold on the taper square axle for a firm fixing, the outer part remains in a fixed position and as you can see it has splines that are meant to locate into the BB shell face. At least 8mm gap is needed. I have just noticed you don't have...

I use a couple of £20 QR Bike Smart panniers I got from Planetx about 3 years ago, still going strong and surprised how much weight and shopping they hold. For extra lugging I have a flat bed carry freedom to which I have a large ABS box I can strap to the base, other wise the CF flat bed is...