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Plastic washers have no place in the motor wheel instillation, replace it with a12mm one.

Comms error can be any where, it is often a fault on the 5v line. So may not just be confined to the display or cable. Controller 5v regulator could be at fault on the PCB or any 5v ancillary line.

You can buy it at the site in the link. http://www.topbikekit.com/hub-motor-c-65_72.html?page=1&sort=20a

AKM 74sx for 74mm d/o's. http://www.topbikekit.com/16kg-akm74sx-24v250w-36v250w-ebike-front-driving-hub-motor-fork-size-74mm-p-823.html

Yes the V12L is an all in one unit with self contained magnet/hall sensors, they can be a bit hit and miss for reliability. The biggest issue with fitting is not having enough gap between BB shell and inside of the crank arm.

I tried Kamoot last night and plotted a 60 mile ride to and from the South Downs with 20+ miles of off road downs riding I and was suitably impressed with it, it is so much better then the Garmin course plotting I have given up on. I saved the course now I need to see how easy it is to down load...

Vfr refers to PAS level on your display/lcd, if it is on 0 PAS won't work. The PAS you showed in pic #31 is a V12L and the setting for it is C1 05, 06 or 07. If a different PAS sensor is used then C1 should be tried on setting 00, 01 or 02.

Try Woosh or ebay for BZ10C though will come from China via TBK shop. My BZ10C was about £10.50 off Aliexpress I loathe to pay UK sellers for doubling the price for the same thing originating in China.

The other sensor (not fitted), simply connect it and with the motor wheel off the ground manually waft the disc by it making sure the sensor is at the bottom ( as if fitted to the bike). Try both disc faces if one doesn't work.

The PAS sensor orientation could be wrong rotate it so the wire comes from under. I usually use a 10 pole disc, in the past vfr has mentioned removing every other magnet with the 12 pole disc and that seems to work. Make sure the sensor/disc gap is about 1mm.

Disconnect the throttle see if PAS will work. What about brake out outs ? Disconnect them too if fitted.

Ok John at least that has ruled out the controller as having a mosfet issue. Beg pardon regarding the shorting flash, I guess the cap was fully charged nearly.

Might not be the light, could be a break in the wire.

Not forgetting nearly all mid drive motors are constructed in the Orient, even Bosch aren't without their faults with after care CS woeful when the two year warranty is finished.

The bikes display has it's own battery, is it charged ?

Not being familiar with these batteries I expect It will need a dealer to diagnose/test it , pretty sure like other mid drives some type of hand shaking occurs. Does the charger led flash ? If so the manual just states that a charging error has occurred.

Mtb's are common place because that is what vendors tend to push folks to, your average Joe/Jane doesn't venture off road much if at all.

Even the Suntour parallelograms wiggle side to side when worn I have two and both are ok but the play in them is terrible, tried the Tmars and only thing I though of it was junk. Zoom market a Suntour wannabe called the Satori Animaris. Thudbuster will be my next move if I swap out.

The money or turnover for repairs is in the hub market as these are repairable by the knowledgeable unlike the box sold mid drive bikes. I wouldn't put China hub bikes down as cheap junk reliability wise they are better then mid drive imv. The bloke or girl at home can repair a hub bike if they...

When I said disconnect controller I meant fully no battery or motor connections.