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In that case the D/O's aren't suitable nearly all bikes need some modifying at the rear for hubs to sit in correctly more so with the cheap D/D hubs with the 14mm axle depth.

Check the axle size as you likely need 14 x 10 T/A's.

The axle on the RHS is certainly not sitting deep enough all of the flat area of the axle needs to be held so you have some filing to do, tab washers for those 1kw cheap hubs are not enough and you will need as least one torque arm fixed securely. Not only will you have file out the derailleur...

Nothing out of the blue to suggest any one thing is the cause, except maybe as alluded to both times the weather was very warm. A check for cell balance might show up something or a poor interconnection on a cell group could be a cause but until the pack is removed one won't know. If the...

In Twatty's case they used lazy reporting as is often the case and initially just used a stock pick of an e-bike, being in the US that could be anything and certainly not an EU legal pedelecs. Then the true story came out after some digging and it was one of the EB01 e- moto bikes that SW has...

Media doesn't know the difference between an arse and an elbow.

The way the chain link has simply parted might suggest a faulty chain batch, a weakness with the pin.

I was trying to see if the wheel was out of true but not enough to see if it was, I think that is where the issue lies with the wheel and spoke tension.

Simon Twatty Face wasn't riding an ebike but an 15kw e- motorbike .

Error 30 comm's could literally be anything, I think one of the most common issues is a fault on any 5v line as they all use the same pcb 5v rail/connection.

I couldn't hear very well even with volume maxed out, but what I could here sounded possibly like may be the rotor tingling against something or maybe a spoke issue.

One can't take it for granted that the motors are the same RPM winding, the motor wattage is just a rating and no indication of it's speed. If the wiring is sound and connections are good then wiring order will likely need changing for correct sync, using the chart to try all 36 possible...

The issue might be a heat issue and some battery BMS do have a temp sensor, if the heat was to much it is possible that thermal cut out occurred. We often refer cutting out as due to low battery voltage or voltage sag, it might be a clue if we new under what circumstances the battery cut out...

Thankyou Daniel, very kind offer from you.

Aeikema sell a 500w 48v cassette model or a 800w freewheel model both the same size. The 800w is only a slower wound hub though. Which rpm model you buy not only depends on the speed you want but also terrain, do you have any hills to climb ...

One of my bikes activates backwards as well, so I always make sure the PAS is at 0 at start so when I push the bike back it doesn't kick in. I think that one is the D12 model.

One could place a switch inline on the V+ line somewhere. On my 700c touring bike I have a push button latching switch which I fitted to the battery case base on the V+ line to the controller. The battery it self has an on off switch but you have to remove it as it is concealed by the receiver.

I think you may have misunderstood about phase wire continuation testing. If one reads back I believe I said, to check the phase continuation one has to check from one end to the other which means from the controller end phases to the hub motor phase wires. I also mentioned that the phases in...

The speed might be down to the hubs winding speed do you know the motor rpm new and old ? The snyc might be that the phase /halls are connected in the hub in a different order so you may have to try a different combo/order of wires. If the controller isn't self learning then if all else fails...

Daniel both of my button pads have snapped for LCD2 & LCD3. The 2 I'm not to bothered about as it is fairly tight still but the 3 is a loose as anything, so wouldn't mind one please.