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If the battery works ok and you can get good miles using it then keep using it, ditch the tape and use some double sided Velcro or a buckled Velcro strap to retain said battery in place...

I think they are still owned by the same people Leclerq being the founder and 40% owner, the only thing I think that has changed is the name of the holding company.

There will be some unhappy buyers then as they won't have a clue about what they are buying, the spec says battery protection charge /discharge, blah, blah, blah. And how the claims vary, this one 3p and 12ah per parallel. Jesus also noticed the price hike vs Ali, double the price hike for a...

Decathlon appear to have good CS and return policy. And the bikes are too shabby either.

You should see continuity for each wire end to end. If it is suspect just but any 3 wire £10 sensor to use.

There is no best bike except for the one you feel is most comfortable to ride, 700c for me with up to 47c tyres.

P1 go with it for now no reason why it should be far out, set the max speed to 25kmh then ride with a gps to see how far out it is first. P3 No leave it as current control. P5 12 for real time battery state, the bars will go down under high current load then rebound when load is reduced. C2...

What's wrong with the Victoria bike ?

Just use a meter or an inline watt meter to check progress, after a while one know approx. how long to charge to get to about 3.9v. I 'm not annal about it any where between 38.5 - 39.5 does for me then I top up to 4.1v per cell group.

52v at 17.5ah is some 880wh, that's huge for 30 miles and 415m of elevation. It should easily be doable.

They have there uses. It depends on the bike and the terrain ridden on. I have two one a 4.4kg BPM never gave me any real issues, only thing with it was unsensored and a bit loud also some torque steering. The other hub is alight weight new Bafang G370, the bike isn't finished yet.

20mph is about 32km/h , the top speed that the hub is wound for at 36v. The lcd speed setting for 72km/h is there for those who use 500rpm D/D hubs so they can utilise the hubs speed mainly for the US market.

My first thought's are; 1. Do a vfr and check the hib motor connector is fully pushed home, it can be found about 20cm from the hub axle.( don't just look at it physically hold both parts and push it together). 2. Check the PAS sensor located under the BB in case the disc or sensor has been...

I don't mind helping if the poster listens and tries. if they start being rude/offensive then I don't bother. I think Mike's one fixation is about the R2 which might be a red herring as it appears to be linked to the speed sensor track for which there isn't a senor fitted.

15 miles it should to both journeys on one charge. Some will say yes and come out with various theories and even cutting and pasting other people's theories, but I say no because the BMS once it detects full charge simply shuts down an doesn't allow any more current to flow. Also the charger...

Yes if it is 250w rated, beware of the Speed pedelecs models as they aren't legal here if not insured and licenced.

Yes as always vfr has his thinking head on, if a crank drive then the internal gearing is horrible and they take serious effort to ride unpowered. I tried to this with my one about 5 years ago and the effort needed wasn't great so generally went back to hub drive.

Front hub isn't always so good for steep hills and can loose traction on loose/slippery surfaces even wet roads, that is not to say they are no good.

For a more stable ride have a look at tad pole trikes utilising twin front wheels, the ride is laid back recumbent style.

They draw buyers in with stupid claims and those who know no better fall for it and are scammed out of their money, One should be able to get their money back via Aliexp though. We haven't heard of anyone yet on here who has bitten the bullet or owned up yet to buying one but still waiting a...